Cycling Amenities Growing in Japan ... Fuji Cyclegate at Suruga Oyama Station

Yesterday, as I did an "Olympic road racers recon ride" (they were doing recon for the race, I was doing recon to catch a glimpse of some of them) ... I was impressed by how much the selection of Doshi Michi and Mt. Fuji area as the site of the Tokyo 2020 (err 2021) road race seems to have made the region wake up and realize that they have lots and lots of people cycling there on weekends, and they ought to offer a bit of a welcome and acknowledgement.

I planned to hop the shinkansen to Odawara (634am departure/700am arrival) and go from there, ... but it was a beastly hot day yesterday, so I looked for a way to avoid slogging from Odawara up to Oyama. After I exited the shinkansen, I walked up the steps to the Odakyu Line. ... There was a 708am express (急行) leaving toward Shinjuku in a few minutes that would stop at Kaisei and Shin-Matsuda, saving me 10km of sea level riding by about 10 minutes on the train. I hopped on and got off at Shin-Matsuda ... and walked across the street to the JR station ... there was a 723am local heading in Gotemba/Numasu direction ... I had to fight through a crowd walking the other direction on the platform, but made it onto that train and got off at Suruga-oyama station (駿河小山駅) just after 740AM. The stop looked a bit closer to my destination, if lower, than the next one (Ashigara), and I have been through Ashigara several times so through I would try it.  This starting point put me at 275m elevation, ahead of the heat all morning heading toward 1130m elev, with the climb through field and forest via Oyama toward Subashiri. It also avoided the need to ride a few lower stretches on the shoulder of Route 246.

As I took my bike out of the rinko bag and put the wheels back on, a gentleman approached and introduced himself. He said he was from the local tourist association and pointed to a nice new wooden building across the street. He welcomed me and handed me a pin. He said "these are for cyclists who come here via train to ride". Indeed, the pin read "駿河小山駅輪行記念" -- Suruga Oyama Station Rinko Commemorative!!!  A badge designed just for me. Wow. I thanked him, completed the bike assembly, and headed out. As the only cyclist to exit the station that morning, I had mixed emotions. As I passed the empty building from which he had emerged, I could see it had a cycling theme and what looked like some kids bikes and mamacharis on display, as well as bike racks in front. It is the Fuji Cyclegate. Next time, I will check it out thoroughly. (There is apparently a direct train from Shinjuku to Gotemba that would stop here, for those of you not near Shinagawa).

Suruga Oyama Tourist Association Welcomes Rinko Cyclists!

Up at Yamanakako, and on Doshi Michi, of course, there are now cycling themed cafes, sculpture work, every restaurant or store has at least one cycle rack ... and they will sorely miss the crowds that they expected for the actual Olympic events this weekend. 

At Yamanakako - end of Doshimichi

The bike's too small for him, ... and the seat looks a bit painful!

As I descended upper Doshimichi, I passed a small grassy area beside the road on the left side which had at least 20 wooden cycle racks in a few lines ... places for the spectators to park their bikes as they watched the race. ...  the empty racks a sad reminder of a no-spectator event. I hope those racks will get repurposed and donated to parks, stores, and cafes nearby. 

A newly opened establishment on Doshimichi, just a km below the Michi-no-eki.
It had VERY minimal food offerings and coffees, but a large section of frozen food cases with meat for a massive BBQ party. ... I hope that they up their game a bit so it is worth a food stop.

Postscript: I went back later in the week and rode in the opposite direction up Doshimichi, over Mikuni Pass (the easy side) and down to the Odakyu Line. I stopped again at Suruga Oyama to actually check out the rinko-rider facility. They have lockers to stow a change of clothes and free showers (available 8Am to 6PM), and even sell spare tubes for road bikes in their vending machine outside ... accessible 24-7 should you need one. And if you are a non-cyclist, they also have some rental bikes, helmets, etc. 

A good jumping-off point for riding near Ashigara or Gotemba. 

Four Views of Fuji - South, West, North and East

First view -- South side. On my approach, on Shizuoka Route 72 after the climb up from Shin-Fuji Station to around 450m elevation.

Second view -- West side. Taken from a small road that connects Shizuoka Route 71 with National Route 139 just south of Asagiri Kogen.

Third view -- North side. From Lake Shoji at midday. Spectacular!

Fourth view -- West side. From Lake Yamanaka as I head back toward Tokyo. (If I had waited another 45-50 minutes here with many photographers, I could have taken the "diamond Fuji" with the sun setting directly over the summit ... but that would have meant a cold and dark descent down Doshi Michi).

All in all, an excellent ride. Doshi michi is completely blocked below the Route 76 turn off, and so there was a line of sitting cars several km long on Route 76 trying to get onto Route 20 at Fujino. ... and another line of cars on Route 20 beyond. So I rode cautiously past these cars, then hopped the train from Fujino.

Even Rte 139 near Fuji Yoshida looked nice on Sunday.

A bike alone at the Doshi "michi no eki" with its signs welcoming the Olympic Road Race

Fall colors in fading daylight on lower Yamanashi section of Doshi michi

Endless traffic as Route 76 approaches Route 20 (Koshu Kaido)

The day's route. As you can see, not QUITE straight no S, W, N and E views.
More like SW, W, NNE, ENE?

My Day to Ride

On lower Doshimichi. Clouds to the East at sunset.

On Sunday I woke too late to join the Tokyo Cranks annual sakura viewing ride. But I had been hesitant about going in any event. Today I wanted to ride to beautiful places, and up some real climbs, and the Cranks' plan to see sakura en route to Koganei Park, then get coffee nearby, would have wrapped up late morning with me at least 25kms from any the entrance to mountains, leaving only a half day to ride out of Takao, Musashi Itsukaichi, or Oume.

The reward for a climb.

Yes, I wanted to view sakura, but today I wanted to climb, and I wanted to see beautiful scenery. And I wanted the freedom to go where the weather was good, to alter my plan as the mood struck me. Freedom; a good sleep instead of the usual early alarm to meet others; no set course, no Audax time limits; and no afternoon or evening plans that would make me watch time carefully.

I decided to go to Odawara and try the Ashigara Pass climb that ice and snow had prevented me from completing last year. I have only been over it once, coming from the other direction.

Path along the Sakagawa. 

I packed my rinko bag and a thin rain/wind shell and headed for Shinagawa. Out the door at 830AM; at Shinagawa and starting to pack the bike at 835AM; heading into the station at 842AM; and on the platform and into the train at 847AM. I took a Tokaido local since I would have needed to wait until 9:04 for the next Kodama, and I enjoyed the flexibility to pick my station.

Kamomiya was a sleepy local station with flat, easy access roads through mixed farm, residential, industrial areas to get to the Sakagawa, which I remembered had a path I could ride up to get very near to the Ashigara climb. I thought about just riding on the roads, which had little traffic on Sunday morning, but the path and river seemed more consistent with a sakura ride, even if slower.

The sakura were starting to blossom at points along the Sakagawa, but still early. The peak will be over the coming week here as in most of Kanto.

I had not planned my route, but decided to try to stay off the main road and take a short cut up the first part of the hill and merge into Pref. Route 78. Looking at the map now, I see that Route 726 would have been much more direct. And I made a wrong turn, taking a lovely quiet local road up the hill past the Asahi Beer brewery (which, by the way, was hidden away down the hill, and had some beautiful sakura planted along the road in front). The road ended abruptly.

Glad I am not driving or the lack of road would be a serious obstacle.

My work in solar PV development trained me to find the path through places like this.
There always is a path, even if just a footpath a meter wide or so.

There were farms here, nestled in the valley along a stream. I carried my bike down the steps, walked along some paths between fields, waving at the few farmers I saw working on their fields. In a few hundred meters there was a concrete path. I took this until I finally returned to a real road and then onto Route 78 and the lower part of the climb.

The scenery was spectacular. Lots of photo stops. At one, I chatted with a local who had come out from across the street and was enjoying a grove of sakura surrounded by yellow na-no-hana. He asked if I was going to Ashigara Pass. Well, I was not sure. I said, perhaps Ashigara Pass then Mikuni Pass/Yamanakako/Doshi Michi. Or I might go over the closed rindo to Kintoki Shrine and Sengokuhara, then Hakone Pass and along the skyline and down to Atami, or west to Mishima. Or maybe Ashigara Pass then back down the valley along Rte 76 -- parallel to Rte 246 -- and then west to Hadano and home via Yabitsu Pass.

In the end, I decided to avoid Hakone and its traffic, and stick to the plan to do the Ashigara climb. As I had last year, I saw many trail runners going up and down this hill -- but only a few other cyclists. This must be a mecca for trail runners, the way that Yabitsu Pass and Tomin-no-Mori are for cyclists.

Kintaro always wears a top with the character "kin" (gold).
... as if I were always to wear a shirt with a big "D" on it.

At various points along the road there are signposts pointing to a path labeled 足柄古道 or Ashigara Ancient Road. Indeed, Ashigara Pass along the Tokaido is mentioned in the Manyoushu (万葉集) from the 8th century. It was later replaced as the "main" route by Hakone, and the sense that this is an ancient place is quite strong. The mythical boy hero, Kintaro, was said to be raised by a witch queen who lived up here on Mt. Ashigara. And the story of Kintaro, the boy of super-human strength, is apparently based upon a real person. At the entrance to the shrine at the top, there was a statue of Kintaro, with his hammer, riding a friendly looking bear cub. In fact, the bear statue reminded me of a wombat!

The climb is steep, 12% or more for stretches, and tops out at around 750 meters elevation. Over the top, the sky was a deep blue to the west, and I could see Mt. Fuji. I took a minor forest road on the descent through dappled sun toward Ashigara Station. More photo stops!

Looking down toward Ashigara Station and Mt Fuji.

I decided to go for Mikuni Pass. Mikuni is on the Olympic men's road race course for 2020. This pass is crazy steep -- like Mortirolo in Italy, or Kazahari Rindo. Not quite like the Angliru or Zoncolan in Spain, but definitely more than 2x Wada Pass.

I had only climbed it once before ... after doing a hill climb race up the Toyo Tires Turnpike out of Odawara. That was miserable, legs already quite tired from the race, and there are parts of the climb that are not only steep, but lack shade. Today was cool, but the climb still defeated me. Ashigara Station was around 325m elevation, and the top of the climb was 1150m or so. The real climb starts just west of the Fuji International Speedway and includes 700 meters vertical, immediately exceeding a 10% grade. Much of it is 12-18%. The famed "concrete donuts" are the steepest 18% part, but I had not remembered all of the other steep parts. I rested, and I walked, defeated by the grade. I remounted and finally made it to the top of the steep section, on the border between Shizuoka and Kanagawa. From there it is only a few km of more reasonable (5-10% grade) climb to the border with Yamanashi Prefecture.

No place to go but up.

The infamous concrete donuts. Lots of 16%, 12% and other warning signs too.

At the Shizuoka/Kanagawa border, end of the torture, now just a normal grade ahead.

"Mikuni" (三国) means "three countries", and is a typical name for a pass that borders three different jurisdictions. There are other Mikuni passes, just as "ryogoku" (両国) pass is for a pass the borders "both countries". There are plenty of those also. And of course, there are multiple Wada Passes, and Yamabushi Passes. And plenty of Mount Myojin's as well.  I think we need a re-naming initiative. Maybe this Mikuni Pass, or the nearby Yamabushi Pass, should be "Yamanaka-ko Gateway Pass" (山中湖ゲートウェイ峠)?

Anyway, the view over Mikuni of Mt. Fuji close up was spectacular. Every time I come to Yamanakako it seems a different Fuji is on view. From here I took a much more familiar route -- the short climb over Yamabushi Pass, down Doshi Michi, then a right turn to Miyagase ko and Atsugi where I hopped the train home ... with a short ride from Nogizaka on the Chiyoda Line back to Takanawa.

Doshimichi also looks like "Olympic Road Race Central".
They even have added lots of bike parking racks at the michi-no-eki.

The last light faded as I climbed to Miyagase-ko.

On the dark descent to Atsugi, I was drawn by lanterns up a side road and a hillside as far as I could see. This was Iiyama-san. The lanterns were to light a row of sakura that climbed along a stream and then up to the temple. It was not crowded, but there were families and individuals strolling. I walked my bike under the lovely canopy. Then rode back down the hill and into Atsugi. A perfect surprise end for a spectacular day on the bicycle.

Only 121km for the main ride, but 2300-2400 meters of climbing, not easy climbing.