Showing posts with label Ibaraki. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ibaraki. Show all posts

14 October 2026

600km Birthday Ride to Kitakata and Back - Fox, not Bear, Sighting

Since I did not quite complete the lovely 1300km ride over last month's "Silver Week" holiday, I wanted to ride the "back-up" 600km event for which I had registered. The back-up was a Randonneurs Tokyo ride from Kawasaki to Kitakata, a town north of Aizu Wakamatsu in the same large valley in NW Fukushima Prefecture, and back. The theme title was a Japanese version of "let's ride to Kitakata and back to eat some ramen," as Kitakata is famous for its style of ramen. Kitakata is one of the 3 most popular ramen styles in Japan, along with Sapporo and Hakata (Fukuoka) ramens. Kitakata is not a big city, so I guess not a lot of people visit there for reasons other than its ramen, and it leads Japan in ramen shops per capita.

Strava links:

Day one:  https://www.strava.com/activities/20528435703

Day two: https://www.strava.com/activities/20541510011

I did not choose this ride for the ramen, however (fortunately, as reported below). I chose it because this is the only weekend in October that I don't have a schedule conflict, and because it looked like another interesting trip into parts of Japan north of Tokyo, not dissimilar to last year's 600k, or this year's 1000k and 1300k attempts, all out of Yaita organized by Utsunomiya Audax. Also, October is prime riding season in Japan, at least in areas north and northwest of Tokyo.

The start of our 600km brevet and a 300km event, at Todoroki, Kawasaki-shi

One of the benefits of an R-Tokyo ride is the usual start location -- within 45 minutes' ride from my house in Todoroki area of Kawasaki, just across the Tamagawa at Marukobashi. This is just over 11kms from my house, less than half the distance to the Aoba Randonneurs start, and about the same distance as a Nihonbashi or Tamagawa start. Just about all the other Kanto-based groups -- Saitama, Kanagawa, Chiba, Utsunomiya, among others--require either a train or car trip to the start and from the goal, utsunomiya typically requiring arrival the night before the ride given the distance from Tokyo. This time, I did not want to use/bring a rinko bag with me -- if I don't have one on the bike, then I won't be tempted to return home by train, right?

Another benefit of R-Tokyo rides is the large number of offerings. This time, they were offering a 300km and a 600km on the day when I could start. 

I felt good in anticipation of the event. I would ride the RAMAX again -- it had worked perfectly on the 1300km attempt -- except I would swap out the Ryet saddle for an older, trusty Fizik Arione. I brought the same combination of creams I had used on the 1300km, and those, the dry weather, plus the Arione seat, meant I could make it through in comfort, at least as to my butt. The weather forecast was near perfect -- cool at night, warm in the day, but not too warm, not summer hot. And no major headwinds in the forecast, nor signficant risk of precipitation. 

The ride started at 6AM on Saturday of a 3-day weekend. It also happened to be my 64th birthday, and I figured it was my party so I could do what I wanted, and delay any other celebrations until the recovery phase. (My older sister called this my "will you still need me, will you still feed me" birthday after the Beatles' song "When I'm 64"). 

The 6AM start was great, especially after the 8AM start a few weeks ago in Utsunomiya. Why?  It meant the first day could finish up before 10PM, instead of extending to after midnight. It also meant an hour riding at the start before there was significant traffic.

Entering Tochigi, at 10:41AM. No photos up to here.

And oh boy was there significant traffic. The route north from Tokyo went through Tokorozawa, Saitama, near Kawagoe, and up into Gunma near Takebayashi and Sano, then over a modest climb and into the area around (just west of) Kanuma. The roads all the way through Gunma and into southern Tochigi were toward the awful end of the spectrum, in terms of heavy traffic and lack of shade or attractive features. At least they were fast and relatively direct. Then once we got over the hill and into the area around Kanuma, everything switched, 180 degrees. Now the roads were quiet, and much slower. There were even a few nasty little ramps on side roads in the forest. Maybe the course designer started out thinking "fast" and "who cares about the traffic!" then went out and had a delicious, filling lunch, and came back to continue the route plan thinking a "slow and scenic" route would be best. Anyway, I would hope the route planner would look at other Audax routes that go north out of Tokyo and toward this part of Gunma/Tochigi, and find a nicer option with less traffic.

The nicer country west of Kanuma, Tochigi



Approacbing Nikko ... camera lens needs cleaning!

The big surprise for me was the climb north of Kinugawa Onsen.  I had been through the area around Nikko many times, but never headed north up the river beyond this major onsen town. Or should I say formerly major onsen town. The place is known for having a number of larger hotels that catered to group travel back in the 1960s-1990s, but have shut down or become dilapidated. At least that is my strong impression. Stil, on a sunny Saturday afternoon of a 3-day weekend, the place was full of tourists and did not seem dead. 

Kinugawa.
Below is a video of the river further up on the climb.

The climb up Route 121 north of the main part of Kinugawa town was lovely. It was mostly not steep, and it was something like 35 kms from the Lawson convenience store checkpoint to the border with Fukushima Prefecture, a climb from around 400m to around 850km elevation. The climb had plenty of flat stretches, including a ~10km long section with a reservoir (Lake Ikari), but mostly was just a lovely wild valley. Eventually, we reached a "T" intersection and joined Route 400 -- the same road I had taken out of Yaita into Minami Aizu on the Utsunomiya 600 and 1000km brevets this and last year.  

Approaching the "T" intersection with the route from Nasushiobara to Minami Aizu
17:21 and light starting to fade.

My feet still flared up, swelling and painful in the heat of day-1 afternoon around 135kms. The same happened again on the second day.  I had zero issues in the mornings or at night, so I really do think my feet were swollen in the warm of the day, after some hours on the bike each day.  I wore Lake shoes that fit well (with thin wool socks that would not constrain my feet even if they swelled in the heat), and with a custom molded insole. I lowered the seat a bit relatively soon after pain appeared, I used topical Voltaren, I loosened the shoes at rest stops, and the pain was manageable ... and went away not long after sunset, only to return late-morning on day-2.  What is the solution? Is there one? Flat pedals and other shoes ... as I use on the recumbent? I will need to experiment further.

Jerome, who also joined the ride, broke the cable on his rear derailleur relatively shortly after we got to the nice territory west of Kanuma. This is the kind of thing I once carried spares for ... but I use an electronic shifting groupset and Jerome did not have a spare cable with him. Also, his bike has internal cable routing, so changing one is no longer as simple as it once was. We stopped for lunch at a "shokudo" in the countryside. We were the only customers and the food was uninspired ... but he could call and locate a bike shop ahead in Nikko. There was some up and down in the stretch before Nikko, and I actually saw Jerome walk up one hill -- a new experience. As we went through Nikko, we were further down the hill than we had been on the 1300k last month, but at one point crossed the course, and Jerome veered off to go to the bike shop, Kamiyama. I continued on to the check point at Kinugawa Onsen falls area, and then onto the long slow gradual and, at a cool dusk on an October day, lovely climb.  I got a report from Jerome that he was done at the bike shop and back on course. He was 1 hour and 20-30 minutes behind me at the checkpoint, having lost that much time with the repair, but still way ahead of the notional time deadlines. 

Once I got to the intersection with Route 400, I knew the top of the climb--and entry into Fukushima Prefecture--were not far. Once on the descent, my hard work for the day was essentially done. I had ridden 230kms from home, around 215km on the actual brevet course. I had another 85km to go before I would sleep, but it was only just ~6PM and the rest of the course was almost entirely downhill or flat, without headwind or rain. What a contrast to Day 1 of last month's Utsunomiya 1300k!

I got a dinner of convenience store pasta at Minami Aizu Tajima, and kept rolling. I arrived at the Kitakata checkpoint -- the "ramen shrine" -- around 9:40PM.  All the ramen shops on the main street were closed! I was extremely disappointed with R-Tokyo for planning a ride to eat ramen and not giving any suggestions about where we might find it. I had asked at the start and been told if every place was closed in Kitakata, we could get some in Aizu Wakamatsu at a chain place open 24 hours. ... of course, we did not pass THROUGH Aizu Wakamatsu, the course went around. And we would not even touch the outskirts until 3AM on the return. And who needs to go to Fukushima Prefecture to eat chain-shop ramen? 

The ramen shrine ... closed for the night
I stopped at a Lawson convenience store en route to the guesthouse I had booked. I got some of their special Tohoku miso ramen, figuring I could at least eat it before I slept. At least it was supposed to be regional -- Tohoku.  I also got my breakfast yogurt, eggs, banana, etc. for a few hours later and headed to the guest house. It was a converted house with 3 or 4 spacious tatami rooms, a kitchen, bath, toilet, lounge, etc. facilities. The proprietors looked to be two younger men, perhaps a couple? They appeared almost immediately when I texted a question. I guess they also run the coffee house, gallery, and performance space in the adjacent building. It was nice to see them making a go of it in Kitakata.  Everything in the house was so clean, I was very worried about making any kind of a mess. Sadly, by the time I got to the guesthouse, most of the ramen soup had spilled out of the bowl and into the plastic bag ... so I drained the bag into the sink without making a mess. Whew. And I ate the barely warm noodles. 

Guesthouse -- I left the door to our room cracked for Jerome.

Anyway, I sent Jerome instructions ... he had closed the gap a bit and was around an hour behind me in arriving at the accommodation.

I had planned to sleep until 2AM, but I was in and out of sleep repeatedly and my eyes open wide before 130AM. I gave up going back to sleep, got up, dressed, ate, and was on the bicycle and headed out. 

The organizers had announced that they had modified the route on this next stretch -- the climb up to Lake Inawashiro -- due to bear sightings on the original planned route. Even worse, every electronic sign board since entering Fukushima Prefecture warned that persons should watch out for bears and check the latest reported sightings before going out.  Of course, I had no time to figure out how to do this, and now I was riding alone toward a forested climb in the dead of night. Worse, I was not sure if my GPS had the original or the modified course, and I was not very enthusiastic about going up ANY deserted, forested climb in the dark in bear country given all of the warnings. 

I decided I would just head up a climb up to the west and try to get onto Route 294 at its beginning. If I could connect with Route 94, I would be on a road with actual vehicle traffic, but not heavy traffic at 3AM.  This conscious deviation from the course ... did not work.  I climbed almost 150m elevation, through an industrial park then a mix of fields and forest.  As I was traversing the fields ... I saw a pair of saucer eyes reflecting in my bicycle light from 100m up the road. Then as I got a bit closer, a small dog-like animal crossed the road and hopped across the field. Its hop was very distinctive -- bounding on all 4 legs as if it had springs -- as it went through the field of tall grasses.  It was ... a fox!  I had never seen a fox on Honshu before. They are secretive, nocturnal, carry a very dangerous (to humans) parasite, and are at the core of many Japanese folk tales -- foxes who disguise themselves as beautiful women or needy children, or one's aging long lost mother -- and who trick humans.  

Anyway, the fox bounded on its way, and I found my road intersection and continued the climb. I got to a road that I thought would take me to Route 94 ... and after maybe 500m it started to wind down the south side of the slope I had just climbed from the west, twisting and turning.  Eventually, I stopped and got out my google maps.  I had lost at least 2/3 the elevation I had just climbed, and was approaching the bottom of the hill not far from where I had started the climb. I called Jerome -- he was already ahead of me and about to start the proper climb. I gave up my plan, went back to the bottom, back on course, and did the actual climb.  Other than losing time and wasting energy, I was back on course, and still on track. 

Quite a few riders passed me on the climb toward Route 294. On the one hand, this was reassuring that I was indeed on the correct route. On the other hand, I really regretted not sleeping longer, and my earlier detour. The climb was long but not steep, even if it seemed steep in the pre-dawn dark. Finally, I was up the hill and onto Route 294 ... but the climb was not quite finished.  The next stretch of 25km or so along Route 294 was basically flat, but with enough up and down to remind me how tired my legs were. Then there was a climb up another 100m of elevation to a tunnel, then, finally, a 15km descent from 650m elev down to just over 300m.  We had another 12-13 kms to the checkpoint, and could just roll it in well ahead of the notional closing time. 

Glorious sunrise with fog in the valley below. Another spectacular dawn in Fukushima Prefecture!

6:25AM, down the big hill and now a much flatter road to Shirakawa ... except the upcoming climb(s). 

Except there was another climb -- nearly 100m of elevation gain over a few kms -- before the control point. I arrived exhausted.  But I knew we would just need to get over the Fukushima/Tochigi border and then it would be a gradual descent and lots of flat areas in Kanto to get home. 

I was a bit surprised that, after a small dip, we had a 10km grind climbing over 100m elevation to get to the Tochigi border.  We were riding now on Route 4 -- the "main road" of Tohoku before the expressways were built. I usually avoid Route 4 like the plague, but I had never ridden this stretch and had no idea whether it would have heavy traffic or cars and trucks whizzing by. Most other brevets use a route that takes local Tochigi highway 76 -- a delightful low-traffic climb and nice descent maybe 5 kms to the east of Route 4. How was the Route 4 alternative? It was consistent with other stretches of Route 4. Lots of traffic at high speed whizzing by. Not a lot of fun for a cyclist.  I guess it was slightly more direct than a detour to local route 76 ... but I have fond memories of a Chiba brevet where we descended Route 76 into Fukushima and down toward Shirakawa and ... stopped at a wonderful ramen shop that was open, served delicious and filling fare, welcoming a large group of cyclists in from the wet and cold. Route 4 held no such charms.

We finally exited Route 4 around 40kms from the Shirakawa checkpoint, in Otawara area. We took a nicer, more local road for over 20kms, then could "enjoy" another 5kms along Route 4. This time at least we were riding along an access road, not the main highway, so were not exposed to traffic. Here there were lots of election posters of a local LDP Diet member, Yana-sensei, the new Minister of agriculture. He has been in hot water over threats of cuts to the road repair budgets localities that don't support the LDP. After riding some of the roads that might not get repaired in the future, I must say that I am not a fan of Yana-sensei.

Jerome and I had been together since the Shirakawa checkpoint. As we came into Mouka, I started to look for the next PC. Jerome was ahead of me and rode right by it, thinking it was still 1-2kms ahead. Anyway, there were at least 10 other riders in the PC at the same time.  We stopped briefly, then went down the street to a Mosburger for a sit-down hamburger lunch.

Our bikes -- especially the water bottles -- were warm in the midday heat, as we had parked them in direct sunlight where we could watch them as we ate at the Mosburger. 

The next stretch was unremarkable. In fact, I don't remember very much about it - flat, boring, with traffic gradually building up.  

By the time we entered Ibaraki, at Chikusei NW of Tsukuba, the holiday traffic jams were in full swing. Chikusei, Shimotsuma, Ishige, Joso, Moriya, and finally across the Tonegawa to Kashiwa and then the checkpoint at Matsudo. At places it seemed we were riding past lines of sitting traffic several kms in length, all to get to one red light "chokepoint".  In Moriya, a group of kids on their bikes "raced us" for what must have been a kilometer, we on the road shoulder avoiding a line of cars, they on the sidewalk avoiding other sidewalk users.  Eventually, we veered off with a right turn. I guess they won the race ... but I wanted to holler out "just try doing that for 500 or 600kms!"  If you think the Straits of Hormuz are a chokepoint ... just check out Ibaraki's Joso Fureai Doro and local Route 47 over the Tonegawa on a holiday weekend!

A shoes-off rest at roadside, watched over by the jizo-bosatsu in the shed

This congested course ... I do not pin blame for on the organizers. It is unavoidable riding pretty much anywhere between Tsukuba and central Tokyo on this kind of weekend. The roads are just too narrow, and never caught up with the population when it exploded decades ago. The only routes that avoid congestion tend to be along river levees, and the rivers were flowing perpendicular to our direction, so of no use to us.

Anyway, it was 7PM by the time we made it to the Matsudo PC.  Jerome was still stronger than me, but he was slipping a bit in alertness and judgment ... missing a turn as he had missed the earlier checkpoint. He was doing 80-90% of the pulling when we were riding in tandem, but mostly we were just rolling it home within 50-100m of each other, often with decent separation. Frankly, at this point in the ride, it is safer to have a bit of separation.

Finally, we entered Tokyo Prefecture and the roads immediately widened.  We rode down wide avenues, with thinning traffic in the evening, through Edogawa-ku, Koto-ku, and finally, Chuo-ku. We went over Eitai-bashi, passed the former Tsukiji fish market site, then Shinbashi and down Route 15 through Minato-ku to Takanawa, all very familiar roads and the last within a few hundred meters of my home. From here, we had only 7 kms to go to the finish, a convenience store on Nakahara Kaido just inside Kanpachi. We rolled it in, arriving with almost 30 minutes to spare (a bit less by the time I got my receipt for proof of passage). 

After a short chat with other riders, we went across the street for Indian food and Jerome treated me to a kind of birthday dinner. I think I have never ridden more slowly into town on Nakahara Kaido than after that dinner, as I retraced the final 7kms to home. 

Birthday dinner

I was glad to complete a 600km brevet this year, one that had a reasonable amount of climbing even if it had long flat, boring, and congested sections at beginning and the end. And there was no rush to the end or sense of desperation around time management or punishment to the body to get to the goal on time -- just a long ride back into Tokyo. The RAMAX again worked perfectly; no flat tires or other mechanical issues; no chafing; ... only that annoying foot pain. Still, I know that I will need to up my game substantially if I am to complete 1200k randonees in coming years. The Silver Week 1125kms and this ride have shown me where I am, and where I need to get to.  

25 March 2024

The Enigma of Ibaraki Power

The very impressive Tatsunokuchi observation deck -- we walked, not cycled, from base to top.
Why is the platform on top cantilevered over outside of the base?

Last Tuesday I joined a small cycling tour organized on behalf of a cycling promotion unit within Ibaraki Prefecture’s government. Inbound tourism is booming in Japan these days. The prefecture wants to attract more foreign visitors and cyclists, and is looking for promotion and ideas. 

Ibaraki has already made significant efforts to become a cycling-friendly destination -– most notably with a collection of cycling-related support services in the south and central parts of the prefecture that constitute the “Tsukuba-Kasumigaura ring ring road” -- centered at Tsuchiura Station on the west side of Lake Kasumigaura, and branching out from there around Lake Kasumigaura, as well as along a dedicated cycle path that extends well over 50kms to the NW along the western side of Mt. Tsukuba as far as Sakuragawa City. This entire area is one of six “national cycling roads” supported by the central government (e.g. shimanami kaido).

The support infrastructure include various “cycle support stations” and hotels such as BEB5 Tsuchiura, a hip reasonably priced cycling-themed hotel run by Hoshino Resorts, and around 50 other “cyclist-friendly” hotels that, at a minimum, offer safe bicycle storage, will receive small packages in advance of arrival, have some tools they will lend for basic repairs, etc. 

Until this trip, I did not realize that Ibaraki’s efforts also extend to 2 other regions. There also are cycling-specific route designated along the coast from Oarai north to the Fukushima border, and in the interior north of Mito up to Mt. Yamizo where Ibaraki juts into a small area between Tochigi and Fukushima prefectures. (These areas of Fukushima are quite far from the Fukushima Dai-ichi nuclear reactor, by the way – far south of the routes I have cycled in southeastern Fukushima in recent years).

Ibaraki's cycle routes. We would be in the northern, inland area, the darker shade of magenta.

Our trip would focus on the last of these 3 regions, the Kuji River valley between Mito and Daigomachi (which is on the way to Mt. Yamizo). The prefecture refers to this as the “Okukuji-Satoyama Hillclimb Route” (Japanese website only -- try automatic translation in your browser). “Okukuji” refers to the upriver, further inland areas of the Kuji river valley, and “satoyama” is a Japanese term full of secondary meaning that suggests foothill areas near villages, generally not-entirely-wild woodlands that are too hilly for rice field cultivation. 

Ibaraki Prefecture has designated at least 4 “hill climb” routes at the northern end of the Okukuji area, the most challenging of which goes up Mt Yamizo to around 1000 meters elevation, with plenty of 10-12% stretches. The others are more like 5% or 7% climbs, and go only half as high in elevation. That northern area is wilder, much of it not really what I would call “satoyama” and not where we would go on our short tour. Instead, we would focus on the Kujigawa river valley. 

I’ve ridden through northern Ibaraki on a number of longer events over the past decade or so. I can think of at least 3 Audax brevets that took the “Beef Line”, a “wide area agricultural road” that goes through the hills from Kasama at the southern end and NNE to Hitachi Omiya. One brevet continued onward via the “Green Furusato Line” that goes further East and North almost to the Fukushima Prefecture border near the beautiful sunny Kita Ibaraki coastline. Other trips took the road to (or from) Daigo. Last year I did a brevet that came through Daigo and down the Kuji River to Mito, hit the coastline at Oarai, then went south to Kashima Jingu shrine before heading west and returning to a starting point across the Tonegawa in Chiba Prefecture. 

Other than cold temperatures in the inland mountains at night in March, my memories of Ibaraki cycling are of nice roads, attractive countryside, and relatively light traffic, except on the sometimes congested roads between southern Ibaraki (e.g. Tsuchiura, Inashiki) and Tokyo. 

When the organizers of our tour sent me information, I realized we would be riding in the area between Mito and Daigomachi, a town in the far NW of the Prefecture, wedged between Tochigi to the west and Fukushima to the Northeast. This included some of National Route 118 that I rode last year at night on that brevet. A Dutch friend of mine has a long-term lease of a cabin in the woods near Daigomachi. I visited it once (by bicycle), and he told me that the previous long-term tenant was Karel von Wolferen, a Dutch student of Japan known for his pathbreaking book “The Enigma of Japanese Power.” The book describes power as being held by a loose group of unaccountable elites who operate behind the scenes. In von Wolferen’s view, because this power is loosely held, those who wield it escape responsibility for the consequences when things go wrong. The book is essential reading for any foreigner who marvels at why Japan does not really seem to change even when a prime minister is replaced or an election lost. When it was published in 1990 the book was harshly criticized in Japan. Von Wolferen apparently could not read Japanese well enough to use Japanese language sources, and many Japanese thought the book got some details wrong and that its criticism of the elites was unfair. Of course, soon after Japan entered 3 “lost decades” of relative economic stagnation. In hindsight, the book’s criticisms of Japan’s elite during the high-growth and bubble eras look a bit more supportable, though Japan and its politics have evolved and matured a lot since that time. 

I mentioned to my hosts that this book had been written in the woods outside of Daigo. It was news to them. I guess that is part of the enigma?

Our ride started at Yamagatahara Station. The JR Suigun (水郡線) Line goes through this area, between Mito (水戸) and Koriyama (郡山), and the station house looked quite impressive for a small country train stop. It reminded me of a church. 



We start our tour.

From here we rode just a few kms up the valley then up a steep little pitch, almost a footpath, to a viewpoint built on the site of the ruins of the Yamagata Castle. The building was impressive and provided a nice view. In February the plum (ume) blossoms on the trees adjacent would have been spectacular, and in a few weeks the cherry (sakura) lining the slope in front also would be beautiful. But not today. The shutters on the main view tower were closed due to Monday’s high winds, and the clouds had not yet lifted. March Kanto weather can be cold or warm, dark/grey or blue sky and lovely. Tuesday offered both types, transitioning over a few hours. 



Viewpoint ... with shutters down.

One of numerous treasures housed within - samurai armor

Buddhist sculpture

Shutters down ... 

The valley below and Kuji river.

From here we rode a bit further to a Japanese paper (washi or 和紙) craft house. This region is home to the “nishi no uchi” (西の内) style of washi. The paper has been made since the Muromachi period (1333-1573), but saw its peak in the Edo Period (1603-1868) after the second Tokugawa shogun (who was also known as the “Mito Komon”), had the paper exported to supply merchants in the capital. The paper is incredibly durable. You can soak it in water without it losing its form or the ink running. Merchants kept records of payments and debts in books of this paper. Whenever a fire raced through their wooden neighborhoods, they could just drop the ledgers into water and preserve their records of who owed whom how much – the source of their wealth. 


Even after soaking in water, the ink and paper hold fast. The ledger remains.

Nishi-no-uchi

We had the opportunity to make our own washi, which was fun. 

Fellow cycle tourist Oxana's gift to her cat Vivian.



I bought 4 or 5 large sheets of a heavier gauge of paper with patterns I liked – I hope I can use them as wall hangings eventually. All of the prints in the shop display beautiful Japanese design.





I think there is a place in Tokyo that offers a washi-making experience for students and tourists, … but for a cycle tourist I would definitely try it here in Yamagatajuku.

After the hard work (well, not very hard) of our washi-making experience, we headed toward an early lunch at a country-style restaurant serving salt-grilled ayu (usually translated as “sweetfish” -- a delicious trout-sized river fish for which the Kujigawa is known) and kenchin soba (Japanese buckwheat soba in a pork/miso broth). 

Lunch stop - Mayako's bike, my Ramax, and Oxana's rental

"tengu" over the restaurant entrance

Trees for columns!

Lunch tables -- carved from more tree trunks.
With the two young Ibaraki Prefecture staffers

With the ayu grilling master

The dishes were delicious, the prices reasonable, and the view nice (it would be very nice, except for some ongoing work this year on a levy to prevent the river from flooding into the field in front of the restaurant). The Japanese countryside is full of places like this to get lunch. If you travel by bike in Japan, and are not racing against the clock, this kind of lunch stop can offer your best chance to chat a bit with locals and get great value for a sit-down meal of traditional food. Highly recommended. 

Konnyaku sashimi with a miso sauce -- a favorite of mine

Salt-grilled ayu

Kenchin soba


At the restaurant.

After lunch, we headed downriver on a forest road along the east bank. These forest roads, if you can find them, are always better for cycling than the main highways, as long as you are not looking for some kind of support service. I can remember once riding a highway for 20kms or more along a reservoir in Shizuoka Prefecture at the end of a long day – what a boring road and long slog, I thought. The next time I went through, I took a forest road on the opposite bank of the reservoir, and it was a delight – almost no traffic, and a road that had plenty of shade and just the right mix of dips, turns, and straightaways. 

The (forest) road less traveled


Yamagatajuku -- home of the ayu

Our forest road was lovely and fast, and quickly brought us back near where we had started the tour. We crossed the river and continued south for awhile until we got to the Hitachi Omiya city michi-no-eki (road station).  Here on google maps. The Japanese michi-no-eki is kind of like a “rest area” on a highway in other countries, but more, often a lot more. Michi-no-eki often have local foods for sale, a cafeteria, and other minor attractions, as well as clean restrooms. Some even are connected to a higaeri-onsen (day spa.) The weather had warmed by now, so we had some gelato. 

Bicycle racks at the michi-no-eki -- a "cyclists welcome" equivalent signal

Large plaza in front of the micho-no-eki, for events

"ayu served here" ... also, I guess soft ice cream

Inside the main building

This michi-no-eki had a huge store, selling a wide variety of local products.

Noodles

Mochi (rice cakes)

Pickled vegetables

Local craft beers

After going further downriver, we cross the Tatsunokuchi Bridge to the east bank and headed north again, riding along a wide path on top of a levy that was lined with cherry (Sakura) trees for several kilometers, it seemed. The trees already had lanterns hanging from them, ready for hanami (cherry blossom viewing) in about two weeks. On our left side as we rode along the levy, toward the river, was an incredible bamboo thicket. 





As we started our climb to the final observation deck of the day, we passed an ajisai (hydrangea) park. Ajisai are my favorite flower in Japan, as they offer explosions of color throughout the countryside in June, just before, during, and after the “rainy season”. In March, the bushes were still barren and brown, but this park would be worth a side trip when the flowers are out. 

The ajisai (hydrangea) park

The climb from here was steep (in excess of 15% at points) and longer than our morning hill, but still mercifully short. The young Ibaraki Prefecture staffer was on an e-bike, and motored up ahead. Oxana, a mountain goat of a cyclist, was up the hill ahead of me even riding her mis-sized, lower-end rental bike. I hope her knees survived the experience. Mayako and I took it at a more deliberate pace.  

The view was far better than in the morning, and the tower itself quite a piece of infrastructure, soaring modern steel in contrast to the morning’s traditional wood structure on a stone base. 

Looking downriver

Clear view of the sakura, levy, and bamboo thicket

Oxana snaps a phot

I hold on to the railing ... somehow feel more secure that way.
After taking in the view, we descended safely and stopped at a strawberry farm near the base. These berries were so sweet that I almost wondered if there was someone sitting in the back room injecting them with syrup? Apparently not, but still incredible. The brand/type of strawberry read “Ibarakiss”. Indeed!


Japanese style intensive farming

Strawberries for sale!




Strawberry guard dog?

Having spent most of the day eating and, it seemed, much less cycling, we stretched our legs a bit by taking the Beef Line over a few hills and around 10-15 kms to the SW before returning to Mito and hopping a train home. 

One last chance for direct farm-to-table vegatables at a JA store on the Beef Line

The Tokiwa or Hitachi express trains to Mito from Shinagawa/Tokyo/Ueno stations are under 90 minutes and cost under 4000 yen (around $25) each way. The area we rode through is around 35 kms NW from Mito (or another short ride on the Suigun Line). So if you "rinko" your bicycle, you can do this as a day trip or a short overnight. Of course, you also could include this area as part of a longer tour.

I can imagine a route that would start/end at Narita Airport and take in Kasumigaura and the “ring ring road”, before moving on the Okukuji, then heading either for Kita Ibaraki and Iwaki on the coast and NW toward Koriyama/Fukushima (as I did on the last part of my Fukushima SR600), or go inland via Daigo and Tochigi then further north into Tohoku. Basically, you cannot go wrong if you avoid the major cities and do a bit of advance planning!  

The cycling infrastructure around Tsuchigaura, less than 50kms from Narita Airport, actually would make that a great place to start or finish a bicycle tour around Japan. I urged the Prefecture staff to consider making sure that some of the "cycling friendly" hotels in Tsuchiura would store a bike box, also to make sure that there is bike transportation to/from Narita, and that the details are available in English, on the Internet. It was pretty clear that they are already thinking about this. There is already a regular "limousine bus" service between Tsuchigaura and Narita Airport, but I don't know if that bus would take a bike box or not.  If they would, then this would be a no-brainer way to enter and leave Japan for a cycle tourist!

This gives a further idea of where we rode, if the Google Maps links are not enough: