Trying Out Some Shorter Saddles, Saddles with Cut-Outs, and Cheaper 3-D printed Saddles

I have yet to write up my PBP adventure of 2023. I DNFed after Loudeac and before Brest, just under 500kms.  The main problem was with my left wrist -- a lingering injury that turned out to be a scaphoid fracture but had not shown up on an earlier x-ray.  

A secondary problem was chafing/saddle sores that made it painful at times to ride — made much worse by my inability to ride out of the saddle due to the wrist injury, and a very hot afternoon on the stretch before Loudeac. I had the same issue in 2019, much later in the ride, with the same saddle on the same bicycle. That is a Fizik Arione model that is just slightly wider (and interferes just slightly more with my leg motion) than the classic, original Arione.  And the saddle cover is slippery/smooth on top, bit a bit grippy on the sides where the legs should slide smoothly. Also, the narrow front part of the saddle is a bit wider and protrudes more than on the "Classic" version.

The wider Arione w/ grippy sides and the more-bulbous front. 209 grams.
Worked fine on many rides ... but problematic on the longest randonees.

As mentioned years ago, the classic Arione (the "good" Arione) has been my long-time go-to saddle. I rode 205kms yesterday on one and it fit me absolutely fine.

The Classic Arione. 225 grams and worth it.

But I have my doubts whether the Classic Arione can continue to be my go-to. 

--First, Arione model types have proliferated, and most of them do not work at all well for me. The "classic" Arione is not easy to find these days. Sure, I only need one every other year or so, but at this point I cannot find one in stock anywhere.

--Second the Arione is said by Fizik to be appropriate for the most flexible "snake"-like cyclists. I am toward the other end of the flexibility spectrum.  

--Third, saddle styles have changed a lot in the past decade. The Arione is a long (30cm) and flat saddle. That has the benefit of allowing the rider to shift forward and back, relieving pressure and getting some variation over a long ride. But it also means that the rider is not "dialed in" to a "proper" position. Now, shorter saddles that put the rider in such a position have proliferated and seem favored by bike-fitters and many riders.  These nearly all have a "cut out" or "channel" in the middle to avoid numbness or pressure on the most sensitive parts of the anatomy. If your butt gets sore ... you get out of the saddle briefly instead of shifting back and forth. And the shorter saddle makes it easier to lean forward into an aerodynamic/racing position without putting pressure on your sensitive parts.

I ordered two of the shorter saddles during my injury-forced time off the bike. 

The first is a Fizik "Argo Tempo Kium R3". It is 265mm long, 150mm wide, and has a large cut-out. It is designed for endurance rides and has a bit more padding than Fizik's racing models. It is stated as 229 grams, but mine weighs 243. The cover is very smooth, almost slippery. This contrasts with the more grippy "suede" feel of the middle strip of the Classic Arione.  How do I like it?  It is OK. There is nothing particularly uncomfortable when used on the shorter rides I have taken, but I find the edges around the large cut out to be quite sharp in shape, so I feel a bit as if I am sitting on two sharp ridges, not a saddle. The padding at the rear is wasted when the edges of the cut-out are so sharp. That, the slippery feel, and the weight, all mean it will not be my go-to saddle.

Fizik Argo Tempo Kium R1

The second is the [Shimano] Pro Steath Curved [performance] saddle. It is 142mm wide, 248mm long, weighs 203 grams, and ... is now on the Ti Travel Bike. The Ti Travel bike has been in storage recently and may not be ridden for the next month or two. I liked the feel when I sat on this saddle, and I think the dimensions will work better for me that the wider Fizik Argo. Also, the edge of the cut-out has a smoother transition and feels more comfortable. But just because I have a good feeling about it does not mean nearly as much as actual testing on long rides. Stay tuned. 

Pro Stealth Curved Performance

If shorter saddles are a trend across model line-ups, a recent trend in high-end saddles is 3-D printed versions.  Selle Italia advertises 6 models, priced at Euro 340-450.  Specialized ones also cost in this range.

Fizik has 6 models in its "Adaptive" line, starting from Euro 250. As Fizik explains it, "Adaptive padding is created through a process known as Digital Light Synthesis. DLS uses digital ultraviolet light projection, oxygen permeable optics, and programmable liquid resins to essentially “print” saddle padding that is comfortable, supportive, and incredibly resilient—resistant to both UV exposure and prolonged, repeated use."

These saddles have a kind of mesh padding, like this:

I think the main advantage of this design is probably to get a greater degree of more effective and appropriately distributed padding than a traditional saddle ... at a lower weight. It is for weight weenies, and priced like a higher tech, weight-weenie product. But I just cannot see paying 2 or 2.5 times the price just to shave 50-60 grams off my saddle weight and get padding that may or may not be noticeably different than my trusty Classic Arione.

But ... I was curious. Then I saw that this style of saddle is now being offered on Aliexpress from no-name manufacturers in China. I bought one for around $70 from a brand called Bucklos. It comes with carbon rails and a carbon shell, while the padding area is made from TPU (thermoplastic polyurethanes -- a kind of sturdy but elastic rubbery plastic) ... and weighs in at 153 grams, light as a feather. It is around 143mm wide and 240mm long -- the shortest of my new short saddles. My first ride, of around 50kms ... I did not even notice the saddle. That is about the best thing one could say in reviewing a saddle. 

On the longest ride I have taken with it so far (around 120kms, including 2000m of climbing), I finally "noticed" it after around 100kms, and even wished it (or my bib shorts' chamois) might have had a wee bit more padding. But that is to be expected after months without any long rides. And on that ride, after my next food/bathroom stop, I again forgot about the saddle.

"Bucklos" 3D printed saddle from Ali Express.

The Bucklos does not have the same harsh edge to the cut-out as the Fizik Argo Tempo. And the surface grips my bib shorts just enough so that I don't slide around ... but does not seem to cause any chafing where my legs are moving. I've had this saddle on the RAMAX now since the Festive 500, for maybe 700 kms of riding, and I like it a lot. I'll try it on some longer rides eventually.  

Is the "TPU" material for the padding comparable to what Fizik and Selle Italia are using on their high-end models?  Well, it seems that the major brands work with Carbon 3D.com for their printed saddles. Here is a photo of a Fizik saddle, the padding for which seems made of EPU 41. As is stated, EPU 41 "is comparable to commercial TPUs with a Shore A hardness of 70."

In fact, I like this saddle so much that ... the last time I was on Aliexpress I ordered a second, very similar one (from "Ryet") for around $40 on sale. That one weighs in at 151 grams.

Ryet 3D printed saddle. Carbon shell and rails, 151 grams.

I'll update this post once I have more experience riding these.

UPDATE (April 2024): One problem with the Bucklos model … it is not comfortable for in town riding without a chamois pad. The holes/pattern seems to chafe a bit.

I have now used the Ryet over the past month. It is comfortable for me, as light and even cheaper than the Bucklos, and noticeably softer padding than the Bucklos, and less grippy or likely to chafe when riding in regular pants. It is staying on the bike for my next really long ride.

Seat and Spring flowers

Oh, and the one other saddle I really want (and plan) to try, is the Infinity Bike Seat. It's the official bike seat of RAAM. The seat is basically all cut-out. It places the rider in a set position, no saddle sores because ... not much saddle except around the edges, and you are propped forward so you can use aero bars on a long solo ride. I have a line on a "loaner" I could test, since this is an expensive investment.

 

Helmets -- Time for a New One: Wavecell, MIPS, or none-of-the-above? Giro, Bontrager, Giant, Basecamp, Limar

When I find equipment that works for me, I like to stick with it -- Fizik Arione saddles, Sapim CX Ray spokes, SP Dynamo hubs, Shimano mtb shoes and SPD pedals, Q36.5 bib shorts, Rain Legs, and on and on. These are all gear or parts I have bought multiple times and used for many years.

The helmet equivalent for me was the Giros Atmos helmet circa 2005-2011. At one point it was Giro's "top of the line" road helmet, replacing the Pneumo, and eventually replaced by the even more expensive Ionos. It was relatively light (~300 grams), and it fit my head perfectly so I would barely notice it was there. I owned two of them. One was discarded long ago, but the second was still on my closet shelf, and often on my head, until quite recently. 

I rotated that long-time favorite with various others I bought and tried, none of which has worked quite as well for me -- too heavy, feel weighted toward the front (or rear), not wide enough (or too wide), too tight for a winter cap/liner, not as secure as the Atmos, not as good coverage in event of an impact -- none have been as "just right," as the Atmos was. And over time higher-end helmets got ridiculously expensive, to the point where I always looked for one on sale, a mid-range model that offered most of the performance of the ones that cost twice as much. (Maybe that was why I no longer found one that was "just right?")

But I have read that you should not use a helmet for more than 5 years, nor after it suffers a serious impact. My remaining Atmos had passed at least a decade, and it had had a few impacts, though I suspect it has suffered more impact damage from getting banged up in transit when I travel than actually while protecting my head. In any event, there are visible cracks in the styrofoam, and so I finally discarded it, far after I should have.

The replacement? A relatively inexpensive (63 Euros at Bike24, so around $65 and well under JPY10,000, less than half the ~JPY20,000 price in Japan) Bontrager Specter Wavecell helmet.  

This is not a high end, and not particularly light (~360 grams), nor particularly aero helmet. But it fits my head, it looks as if it offers excellent protection, And the "Wavecell" system is said to dramatically reduce the risk of a concussion or other brain injury in a crash ("up to" 48 times lower risk--more like 3 to 12 times lower risk--by one peer-reviewed study ,,, that I think I read included the inventor of the system, who no doubt profits financially from licensing it to Trek/Bontrager). (Trek/Bontrager no longer use the "up to 48" phrasing in their marketing, as they have been sued in a class action, I believe.) 

This will be my "go to" helmet for riding in town. And if I like it enough i may take it out on the road as well at times despite the few extra grams. It is a nice compromise. I could only find it on sale in a dark blue/black color. So I have added some reflector strips to both sides and the rear, as well as mounting a small rear flasher light.

What is Wavecell? It is a system of a kind of moveable crush-zone on the inside of the helmet that supposedly reduces the movement of the brain in the head in a crash. This is similar to, but much stronger than, the claims made by MIPS. MIPS helmets also include a kind of second, internal head "harness" inside of the helmet that is designed to reduce harm to the brain from strong rotational force in bicycle crashes. Then again, Virginia Tech publishes an annual ranking of helmets based upon its own safety tests. The Bontrager Specter Wavecell scores very well and gets 5 stars. While it was #1 in 2019, now it is only #22 out of #167 on the list (still listed as 5 stars). Many MIPS and even some non-MIPS helmets now rank slightly higher overall on Virginia Tech's metrics.  So while Wavecell's marketing claims ("up to 48 times the protection") are extreme, the actual effectiveness as measured by Virginia Tech seems to be good, and similar to MIPS. 

I have a Giant Pursuit MIPS helmet as well, bought in Fall 2021 on sale online (Euro 139?). It is designed to be more aerodynamic than one such as the Bontrager Specter, with vents on front and rear but not top nor sides. But it feels a bit unbalanced on my head at times -- protruding further at front and rear than a "normal" road helmet. It is around 350 grams in the L size. And its matte white finish was quickly (and, seemingly permanently) dirtied by my riding style and/or grimy hands. Maybe the easily dirtied color explains why it was available on sale?

New

Actual -- dirtied.

Big front (and rear) vents. No dirty air on top or sides.

MIPS system.

Perhaps my most "aero" helmet, however, is not the Giant Pursuit, but a simple JPY3100 (<$25) Basecamp Shinmax, with integrated visor (attached with magnets). This weighs around 280 grams and is ideal for use with the Pelso since its aero properties are not so heavily dependent on having one's head at the "correct" angle, as I suspect is the case with the Giant Pursuit. No fancy MIPS or Wavecell protection, however, and not on the Virginia Tech list.

I also have a Limar Ultralight helmet acquired on a trip to Europe in 2015. It offers, I am afraid, less protection on the sides and rear, and is a bit narrow/tight for use with winter gear. but it is great for travel, noticeably smaller than others to take attached to a carry-on or stuffed in a duffel, and only a bit over 200 grams in the L size. Upon release, it was marketed as the lightest in the world that meets the EU's safety standards. But I do wonder how good its protection is? Limar helmets do not appear on the Virginia Tech list. Here are some comparison shots with the Bontrager that show the difference in volume. What about the "5 year rule"? Well, it has not been used nearly as much as some others, so for the time being I will keep it in my inventory.

There are lots of other major helmet brands out there -- Kask, MET, Lazer, to start. All of them have candidates that are not outrageously expensive, incorporate MIPS, and look like they MIGHT be my next Atmos ... but a bit less expensive and more aero. We shall see ... within a few years.

Time for a New Deuter Race Rucksack!

Back in the waning years of the first decade of the first century of this millennium, a long long time ago, I got a Deuter Race rucksack for use while cycling.

The Deuter Race is relatively small for a pack at 12 liters capacity, but large enough to carry anything I could need on a long single-day ride or, together with my Rixen Kaul rear under-seat bag or Ortlieb (or Guu Watanabe) front bag, on a 2-day brevet. The Deuter Race has an "Air Stripes" system of two meshed foam vertical sections that hold the pack slightly off my back and allow air circulation. This makes a huge difference in terms of me not overheating and not getting the pack covered with sweat. It also has an attached rain cover (hidden in a zippered compartment), and it is designed to accommodate a 2-liter hydration bladder and hose--great for a multi-day ride where some sections require me to carry more water than can fit in my two on-frame water bottles. There is a main compartment, two small zippered small pockets, one of which is on the top and designed for wallet, keys, brevet card, etc., and 2 open mesh external pockets.

The rucksack has proven durable. And despite trying a number of others before and after it, I have never found anything that works as well -- in terms of "fit" on my back, secure/snug but not constricting feeling while I ride (and shoulder straps long enough to work with my long torso and "barrel chest" figure, room for enough (but not too much) gear, adaptability for rain, etc. I put reflective tape on the rucksack so that I could wear it OVER a reflective vest on a brevet. Heck, on our last 600km ride, I pinned a small Audax reflective triangle (signifying "slow moving vehicle") on the back so I did not need to worry about whether my vest was inside or outside the rucksack. And, of course, I could ship the rucksack home with my rain gear and other unneeded items mid-ride without difficulty.  Professional reviewers agree.

But I did manage to damage (slightly -- still usable) one of the plastic clasps on the waist strap as I got it ready for shipping. And the rucksack is pretty severely discolored from the grease and grime of many years. When the rucksack arrived the next morning by Yamato Takkyubin, my wife suggested that maybe it was time to replace it. In fact, she was so enthusiastic about getting rid of the discolored, aging rucksack she offered to give me a new rucksack as a gift. How could I refuse?!

Old and New

The "Air Stripes" are a winning design feature.

What to get as a replacement? Another Deuter Race, of course! There have been some updates in the intervening years -- the shape seems slightly more rectangular, the straps and clasps are slightly different, and the wallet/key compartment seems noticeably larger and has much wider zippered top access (resolving one of the only flaws I can think of from the original design). Will this be the last cycling rucksack I ever need? Possibly. This time I may work a bit more at cleaning it regularly (yearly?) to keep its color. And maybe an attached reflective triangle will mean I don't need to cover it with reflective tape?

The Bicycle's Too Damn Expensive

Earlier today I came across a video review of a Specialized S-Works Aethos 2021 road bike. It looked nice -- a sophisticated paint job, clean lines, and the reviewer said it was straightforward -- round tube shapes, no special integrated stem or bars. Just a road bike, taking the geometry and ride feel of a Specialized Tarmac and putting it in a much more approachable form, for non-racers. Of course, it is super lightweight, under 15 lbs.  I was thinking ... wow, this looks really nice and, if I were to get another carbon road bike someday, maybe it would be a contender.

Then I heard the pricetag. 

$1250. 

No, wait a minute. Add another zero.  

$12500. 

So they stripped the Tarmac down to something minimal and relatively basic, that you can repair yourself, ... but kept the pricetag.

 Ouch. No thank you.

10th Consecutive Day of Rain = Time for a Rain Gear Review!

Outside Segafredo coffee in Shimokitazawa, in my rain gear!

Today marks (by one friend's count) the 10th consecutive day of at least some rain in Tokyo. We have had drenching rain, cold rain, warm rain, sprinkles, misty small droplets, and more.  Rain last weekend put the kabosh on Jerome's erstwhile attempt at SR600 Nihon Alps.

I have tried to put the best spin on things and have continued to ride my bicycle all over town on my commute and for other meetings and errands. (On short rides, in all but the heaviest rain, with decent rain gear and the right footwear, it is manageable. Every once in awhile, I arrive soaking wet, even after removing my rain gear.)

Overnight tonight we are expecting a typhoon. It has been raining in Tokyo most of the past 36+ hours -- the past 12 hours' relatively heavy but not cold rain, and it should rain straight through until the typhoon passes early Monday. Despite this "extremely large, strong" typhoon being a relatively fast moving storm, accelerating as it moves toward the Japanese archipelago, the Tokyo area is forecast to get up to 200mm (8 inches) of rain, while areas along the coast to the west of Tokyo should get even more rain.

Today's weekly Sunday morning Tokyo Cranks ride was cancelled due to rain, replaced with a morning coffee get together at the Segafredo shop a few hundred meters north of Shimo Kitazawa station.

Of course, I rode to and from ShimoKita for the coffee. I did not see a single other cyclist out on the trip over, and only one or two on the return trip. But it was not a bad ride. The roads are LESS slippery after several days of rain than after the first rain in days or weeks. The oily discharge from autos and trucks has mostly washed away after a day or two. And the wind was not strong.

Some thoughts on the rain gear I have used recently:

1. Showers Pass cycling rain jacket.

This is very good rain protection. Nicely roomy, longer sleeves than my other cycling rain shells, plenty of adjustment on the wrist velcro closing tabs. The only issues are that in Tokyo much of the time this jacket is too hot, with sweat on the inside becoming a major issue.  No reason to wear a rain shell if you are dripping wet anyway on the inside! The past week has been cool enough so this is not a problem. Another issue is that the version I have has no hood, and a relatively large opening around the neck. Again, not a problem on a commute, but not ideal for a ride of many hours in the rain.

2. Rain Legs

These rain "chaps" are a life saver. Light weight, easy to roll up and carry around the waist, easy to take on and off. For maybe 15% of the bulk of rain pants, you block 85% of the water that would hit your legs.  And with rain pants, sweat on the inside is always an issue, but not with these unless in extreme heat.

3. X3 clip on rain fender.

This is my favorite brand of clip on fender. It is easy to adjust. I like the MTB version that is a bit wider, since it continues to work even if it gets a wee bit off center. No, a clip on fender is not ideal, it will not keep the rain off your bike frame or grit off of your drivetrain, but it does keep your backside dry.

4. Cycling cap inside helmet.

The past week I have worn a cap with visor -- baseball cap or cycling cap -- inside my helmet. I find this is much more effective for maximizing eyesight than glasses would be in the rain. Glasses fog up.

5. Sealskinz (USA) gloves

These are good, but seem to have lost water resistance over the five plus years (10?) I have used them.

6. Sealskinz (USA) socks.

If I recall correctly, the "sealskinz" brand has different ownership/control in the US and the UK/Europe. These waterproof socks will retain a lot of water once it seeps in the top. They keep my feet dry the first 15-20 minutes of a soaking ride.

7. Shimano MTB style shoes. The shoes I am wearing in the photo actually do pretty well at keeping my feet dry (unlike some others) ... for the first 30 minutes of a soaking ride.

None of these will keep you fully dry if you ride in a rainstorm. But they will make a huge difference on a shorter trip, and welp make the rain tolerable, even fun. And they can make a huge difference in allowing you to ride in rain in the city and actually show up to meetings looking presesentable.

Solestar insoles -- relief for the feet

Over the years, I have suffered occasionally with various degrees of pain in my feet while cycling. Later on during some one day rides, I would get "hot foot" -- if you have had it, you know what it is: the nerves in your foot are telling you the foot is hot, burning hot.  Sometimes it would go away by doing one-leg riding exercises and easing the pressure off my left and right feet alternatively.  Other times I would need to get off and rest for 5 minutes before continuing.  Other times, I suffered the same tingling numbness I remember from lacing ice skates too tightly ... accompanied by searing pain as the blood re-entered the feet once the issue was addressed.

Solestar road insole - side view.  What is so special?  Read on.

Solestar road insole - top view.  Just another insole?  Well, no!

On PBP in 2011, my feet hurt, a lot. I was practically in tears at times.  I wore regular road shoes and regular cycling socks.  A big mistake for that length of event!

So what have I done over the years to manage and even eliminate foot pain?

1.  Proper cleat placement. This is the first step -- in my case I need to make sure the cleats are far enough back on my shoes so that I am pushing on the pedals directly with the balls of each foot.

2.  Larger but proper fitting shoes.  Toes wedged in are not good!  Narrow shoes are not good! Especially on VERY long rides like PBP, it is good to have shoes that give a bit of extra room.  I now generally ride one size larger shoes than I did 5 or 10 years ago ... for the same size feet.

3.  Shimano cycling sandals.  I love these for shorter rides, and my feet feel great.  But they are too flexy for me to work on rides over 100km.

4.  Metatarsal pads.  I tried these after reading some about the causes of foot pain ... but I am not convinced they had a significant impact.  Some of them were downright uncomfortable.

5.  Double and/or thicker socks.  Sometimes I avoid thin cycling socks in favor of thicker wool socks, or double socks.  This can make a big difference.  Recently I would never try a 400km, 600km or longer event riding without double socks -- the inner thin wool and the outer thicker wool.  Wool definitely.

All these steps have helped, to the point where even on a 600km ride I do not worry much about foot pain, as long as I avoid a hammering style of ride.  But there is one other major piece to the puzzle:

6.  Insoles.

I have never gotten custom orthotic insoles, but I have tried a wide range of aftermarket solutions available in cycling shops and on the Internet, as potential replacements for the insoles that come with my shoes.

Sidas insoles -- did nothing for me.

"Powerstep" -- with metatarsal pads glued on -- did not get the job done.
Downright painful!

Another common insole with different swapable arch supports for different feet.  Nope.

The only ones I have that have "worked" for me over the long term are called Bill Peterson Powerbeds.  I got them back in 2002 or 2003, and have never found them since.  As you can see below, mine are pretty ratty.  (I never should have tried gluing metatarsal pads into them.)

Powerbeds - upper side

Powerbeds - underside

Just as I was thinking I really needed a new pair of insoles, my friend David Marx at RGT Enterprises started to import and distribute a brand of insole.  Perfect timing!  These are called Solestar.  Designed in Germany.  David swore that I would love them, and that I would notice a real difference if I used them for at least 7-8 rides.

He was right!

I rode in the Dolomites and PBP with the MTB version, and enjoyed almost no foot issues.  (Well, there was that one extra long day in the Dolomites when I pushed way too hard for way too long and had a little pain, but otherwise no problems.  No foot problems at all on the 1230 kms of Paris-Brest-Paris!  Again I am practically in tears ... but tears of joy instead of pain.

David warned me that it takes awhile to notice the difference with Solestar.  Why?  Because they are designed to keep your foot much straighter and more stable in the shoe than otherwise.  This helps your pedaling motion and can even sometimes solve knee or ankle issues.  It may (according to manufacturer claims) even increase your power.  Also, because your legs stay in the correct plane, your stroke is a bit longer than before, and you may even need to adjust your saddle after the first 4-5 rides, raising it a few millimeters.

These insoles are very popular with top riders -- Andre Greipel, Fabian Cancellara et al endorse on the Solestar website.

Unlike other store bought insoles, they are thick where they need to be, thin where they need to be, they are stiff and flexible just where needed.  They hug and stabilize your foot.  There is even a depression at the rear center so that the large bone at the rear of your foot can sit down and your heel is low enough in the shoe.  They are NOT like cheap one-size-fits-all inserts that are cut to fit in your shoe.  You must get the right size.

The MTB and Road versions retail for 14,000 yen, a fraction of what custom orthotics or high end shoes cost.  With an MTB and a Road pair, if I use them exclusively for a few years, I can get that cost down into the ~1 yen per km range.  Well worth it for happy feet.

Solestar - MTB version

Solestar - Road version

This photo STARTS to show the special features.

Solestar "black" - sprinter's model.

David Marx's model friend "Igor"

Aaahhh

Thank you, Solestar!

More PDX -- Bike Shops

Well, a week in Portland visiting my parents.  The first trip to Portland in awhile, and the first without a bicycle in a long while.

It rained pretty much every day during my visit, so I did not miss the bike much.  Not that a little rain would have kept me off one if I had had it with me!  I saw plenty of hardy Oregon "ducks" commuting in the pouring rain.  Should have snapped some photos.  At least on my last visit to central/downtown Portland, I snapped a few photos of commuting rigs:

A Portland commuter rig.  Fenders a must.  Big solid lock - standard.

Another example -- even with the (rare) drop bars you need fenders.  Really need them.

I did visit a few bike shops during my stay, and stopped by to see Bob Kamzelski, one of my 2012 UBI instructors, at Bantam Bicycles.  Bike shops:

1. Clever Cycles. I stopped by to get some rainlegs rain chaps.  Really a great idea, and I am sure I will get to test them out soon on a long rainy ride.  A nice shop with its own focus.  I also got a nice Ibex brand button down LS wool shirt here - nothing to do with cycling, but a very nice casual garment.

2. River City Bicycles.  A major bike shop.  They have some great looking 1970s and 1980s bikes hanging from the rafters, with explanations ... first commercially available bike in the U.S. with carbon fork, etc., etc.  Very nice.  Lots of River City Bicycles' jersey types ... But I already have one that I like better than the others I saw (and which I use regularly).  I was looking for and asked about their best iPhone holder for use on a bike ... and the guy who helped me persuaded me to his preferred approach -- use a Cateye Strada Smart -- leave the smartphone in your pocket, and read the data on the Cateye cyclecomputer. Stay tuned for a report once I get it set up.

3. Universal Cycles.  I wandered in as I got to Bob's workshop early.  As the name suggests, a somewhat soulless looking store selling mostly online.  They may be part of the Universal Group -- related to Universal Exports, the company James Bond worked for with all the cool equipment.  They are more focused on mountain than road.  On the plus side, they are open early for commuters, and they do carry Ortlieb bags as well as all the Portland essentials (full wall of fenders, reflectives, rain gear, etc.).  I could get an Ortlieb Ultimate 6 Compact to use with my existing handlebar bag attachment, on rides when I do not need the size/weight of the Ortlieb Ultimate Classic but still want an easily removable handlebar bag -- a kind of man-purse for the bicycle, complete with shoulder strap.

4. West End Bikes.  This store is Specialized-dominated and expensive.  I did not buy anything.  But I did need to wipe the drool from my mouth as I walked around and looked at some of their high-end offerings.

Also saw some new bikes from The Bike Gallery when I signed up for Cycle Oregon and attended their kick-off event -- they are a sponsor.  I gave my Dad the $10 off coupon I got, since he uses one of their stores.

And I did see a little blue sky on the last full day of my visit.

The clouds closed in again quickly.

By the way, what is the deal with Kale and Quinoa?  No one ate these when I moved to Japan a decade ago, and last year when I was in the U.S. every restaurant was pushing them.  Now they are even in the airport sandwich shops.

Salads:  Left - Quinoa, Right - Kale

Christmas present to myself

I am getting tired of doing bike maintenance and building (if I were better at it I guess I would call it "wrenching") in the cold/hot garage in winter/summer without a good stand.  This TACX foldable stand is a huge improvement.

Now I just need to get an easily rollable mat to cover the rug so I do not get (more) grease and grime on it, before I am thrown back out into the garage.

Workstand - not telescope or anti-aircraft

Hybrid Que and Salopette Long Tights from Q36.5

I have now had a bunch of rides over the past two months wearing my new early winter garb -- the Q36.5 Long Salopette bibs and Hybrid Que long jersey/jacket.  This is by far the most comfortable, the ideal clothing for this season that I have worn.

The "Hybrid" in the name is because this garment is half way between a long sleeve jersey and a real winter cycling jacket.  It is very much cut in a cycling-specific shape, not baggy, but perfectly comfortable while in a riding position.  The material is like magic -- very thin, but blocks the wind and cold as well as much thicker, multi layered jackets.  Excellent moisture transfer so that I stay dry -- the key to keeping warm during rest stops.I end up far warmer while riding with this very thin material and a simple inner layer than with many thicker, heavier and "warmer" rated jackets I have tried in the past.

Yesterday's ride was in temperatures between 3 and 11 degrees C.  Last weekend was similar, but with very strong winds.  The Saturday coffee run a week before was a bit colder.  Kobu Tunnel ride Nov 30 a bit warmer.  Nov 16 ride to Yorii and back in Saitama started around 2 degrees and warmed to the mid-teens as I passed through southern Saitama on the mid-afternoon return.  On all these the jacket and tights have been perfect -- just moderating my choice of cap, gloves and socks/shoe liners if it is a bit warmer or colder.

After the Kobu Tunnel descent, NW of Uenohara, still warm even after a long descent

To my pleasant surprise, the Hybrid Que even works well in the rain.  Last month I got caught in a nasty, cold driving rain as I left my office for the ride home.  I happened to be wearing the Hybrid Que, with no rain gear.  I feared hypothermia, and was resigned that I might need to seek shelter on the way home.  Over 30 minutes later, as I arrived home, I was still essentially dry inside the jersey.  The same very tightly woven material that blocks wind ... also holds rain at bay for quite awhile.

The long salopette bib tights have the same material, and similar wind-blocking, moisture transfer properties.  They are a "compression" garment like the Salopette L1 bib shorts, fitting as tight as a glove, but extremely comfortable.

My Hybrid Que jacket is black with green accents.  At first I worried about visibility of a black garment, but the green swashes are located where they will always be visible, and large -- from any angle of approach.

Again, ideal early winter  cycling wear and better than anything I have used before.

For more about Q36.5, see their Japan facebook page.

UPDATE (Dec 28, 2014):  I wore the Hybrid Que and Salopette long bib tights again today on a 185 km ride from Tokyo to Shizuoka-shi, then another 15 kms from Shin Yokohama back to my home at dusk.  The temperatures were sub-zero (C) from leaving my home at 4:25AM until after the sun came up and out in between Odawara and Yugawara on the North Izu coast.  Then things warmed up rapidly.  It was cold again on top of Atami Pass (over 600 meters elev), then warm again along the coast from Numazu to Shimizu.  I added a very thin neon green wind shell layer for the coldest stretches of the ride, but otherwise managed to adjust simply changing head coverings, gloves/glove liners and at mid-day removing shoe covers.  Again, very impressed with how thin and light this gear is for something that works so well in the cold!

SP Dynamo -- the 9 series (SV-9) dynamo hub arrives ... and completes Paris Brest Paris 2015!

As regular readers know, I am a big fan of the SV-8 dynamo, having ridden my SV-8 on lots of 600km, 1000km, 1200km, many shorter and one even longer (1420km+ -- LEL) randonneuring events in recent years, putting in 15~20,000 kms, conservatively, with this light source.  And I use an SD-8 (disk version) on my commuting rig, and a PV-8 (greater output) as well, and have built up a number of SV-8's and PV-8's for friends.

The new model is out!  SP Dynamo has sent me a couple of SV-9 hubs.  Announced last summer, the wait is over.

I measure a weight of approx. 313 grams, down from approx 371 grams for the SV-8.  So 16% lighter.  Much smaller also.  As long as it works as well as the SV-8/PV-8 ... a major improvement just based upon smaller size and weight.

Left: SV-8, Right: SV-9.  Big reduction in size, and weight.

SV-9 fits in the palm easily.

My SV-9 weights 313 grams.  Just a wee bit more than the advertised 309 grams.

An SV-8 weighs in at 371 grams.  

I built up the hub with an H Plus Son Archetype rim -- wide, deep, attractive (black with white graphics) and sturdy enough for long distance audax/randonneuring, and Sapim CX Ray spokes -- the best spokes I have used ( ... if more expensive than non-bladed options).  The result is a beautiful wheel that should be very durable and fast.  Wheel No. 00025.

Of course, the hub's low weight (for a dynamo) means that even with a sturdy rim and 32/3-cross spokes, the wheel is the lightest dynamo-hubbed front wheel I have yet to see, weighing in at 955 grams.

955 grams for the wheel, including sturdy rim and 32 3-cross spokes.

How does it work on the road?  Well, stay tuned for updates.

The electric output is not materially different than the SV-8.  As with the SV-8, output is not QUITE enough at low speeds to be certified in Germany for use with standard 700mm road wheels, but plenty of power in practice for someone who rides at normal speeds and who uses modern LED lights.

What is the main difference, other than the lighter weight?  My first impression is that the hub's resistance/drag is impressively tiny when no light is attached (or on).  My spin test suggests it is signficantly lower resistance than the 8 series (which was best in its class).  No, my front wheel built with the SV-9 does not spin for 4+ minutes, like my Gokiso front hub/wheel.  But it does spin for 40+ seconds. That is a lifetime compared with other dynamos and suggests truly negligible drag.  First rides in the neighborhood confirm this.  On December 28 the hub will get its first real test.

UPDATE (Dec 28, 2014):  I took the first extended ride with the SV-9/H Plus Son wheel, 185 kms from Tokyo to Shizuoka, over Atami Pass, then another 15 kms back home from the Shinkansen station at Shin Yokohama.  The hub works just fine.  No noticeable difference from the SV-8, except it rolls even smoother with the light switched off (am I imagining it)?  And, of course, a front wheel that is around 60 grams lighter -- not noticeable to me except perhaps in my imagination, spinning up to climb on steeper sections of the climb to Atami Pass.

I left home at 4:25AM, so used the light for the first 3 hours or so (to Odawara), as well as for 45 minutes of the at-dusk ride home from Shin Yokomama.  I turned the light off during day, but switched it on for the 600 meter elev. descent from Atami Pass -- so cars, if any, would see me coming sooner in the mirrors on the curvy road, and for some stretches on crowded roads where I wanted cars to be more aware of me as I passed by along the curbside at stop lights or in slow traffic.  If it holds up as well as the SV-8 over time, it will be THE hub for randonneurs who want the convenience of dynamo lighting with a "normal" road bike feel and who want to complete events with fast times.

I remember reading a ride report recently from an American cyclist who rode in the "front group" at a recent PBP and commented there were few or no dynamo hubs among these folks -- pure road racing set ups.  With a product such as the SV-9, I would be curious if 2015 is different ... though I will only have a fleeting instant to check, as those folks pass me on the return leg as I head out.

My only regret ... We are now entering the coldest time of the year.  I have only one Brevet on schedule over the next 6 weeks, and it is a 200km, mostly daytime event.  Ride conflicts are cropping up on many other weekends during that period, so it will be awhile before I can get in a really good series of longer rides in on the new wheel.  That said, I am planning to ride PBP and plenty of other events this year, so eventually I will get a long-term test.

UPDATE (July 2015):  The SV-9 has done a few longer brevets, and now will be going with me to Europe and PBP!

UPDATE (Post Paris-Brest-Paris -- August 25 2015):   The SV-9 worked beautifully during Paris-Brest-Paris, and I could complete the event with lots of great memories and no more than the normal pain and suffering/wear and tear.

Lots of other riders noticed that I had a very small, light weight dynamo hub, and it got comments in the "start pen" as we waited for our wave to go.

I saw only a few other SV-9/PV-9s, but MANY PV-8/SV-8 and disk versions (PD-8/SD-8).  Jerome's SD-8 worked flawlessly as well, and I did not hear of any problems with dynamo hubs during the event.  Even riders who say that they do not usually "need" dynamo hub lighting want to have it for Paris-Brest-Paris, where they will be riding through the night for 3 consecutive nights, and will have very limited access to electric outlets for battery recharging or stores selling replacement batteries.

At this point, I would guess that more than half of the 6000+ PBP riders must be using dynamo lighting.  I guess that Shutter Precision's market share has jumped enormously, especially with riders from UK, US, Australia and a few other places.  Schmidt still seems to hold a majority of the randonneur market, but a shrinking one.