07 May 2023

Shimonoseki->Ōmazaki Unsupported Honshu End-to-End Challenge

I completed my longest ride yet over the first half of Golden Week (starting a few days early). I left Shimonoseki (at the SW corner of Honshu) shortly before 9PM on April 26, and 1667.22km later reached Cape Oma (Omazaki) just before 2PM on May 1. That is 5 days and 17 hours later. I rode the Pelso, so the route was designed to be as flat and direct as practical, at the expense of riding a number of major, congested roads. (Routes 2, 4, 7, 8 among others, though not in that order).  I rode the first few segments as much as practical at night. 

At Omazaki - furthest North point of Honshu

Better view of the bike -- Pelso Brevet.

A few days later, starting on April 29, Jerome joined the Tokyo Randonneurs' similar ride for around 40-50 randonneurs. They took a somewhat hillier and less direct route (1900kms) than mine, and it took about one day longer.
Jerome along the Akita coast with Mifune-san

I will add some details of the ride in subsequent posts.

Here are the maps of my 5 "days" as uploaded to Strava.

Day 1


Day 2

Day 3

Day 4 Part 1

Day 4 Part 2

Day 5 Part 1

Day 5 Part 2

Day 6 stub

Continued posts:






24 April 2023

A Better Rinko Bag!

Rinko'ed bike waiting as I purchase a shinkansen ticket.

In Japan, cyclists need a "rinko bukuro" or rinko bag in order to take their bicycles on trains. The basic idea is to take your wheels off, clip them to your frame, put it in a lightweight nylon bag, and attach a shoulder strap. This way you won't get grease or other grime on other passengers, the train, or yourself, as you carry the bike. It works for all but the most crowded rush hour trains, especially if you choose a car at either end of the train. It works on the shinkansen, where you stow your bike behind the last row of seats in a car (or, in a pinch, in the area between cars). Now the shinkansen has reservations for seats that have extra space behind them at the rear of some cars for "extra large luggage", but in most cases, even on the shinkansen, you can still just take a bike in rinko with you, no extra reservations, no extra fees. Rinko bags generally roll up into a stuff sack that fits in a bottle cage, so you can ride with your bag on your bike. 

Although some old school types like a rinko-specific bike with fenders that split in two, etc., and you can study a 30 minute youtube video by the "rinko master" who will show you the right way to do every step of securing your bike in a rinko bag for maximum safety, stability, etc. ... most regular cyclists favor a minimalist approach.  But I want to just clip my wheels to my frame, pull up the bag, attach the shoulder strap, and run for the train. I can be careful not to bash my exposed rear derailleur, and nothing else is particularly vulnerable.  Some people opt for rinko designs that even leave the rear wheel attached. These result in very bulky packages, in my view, especially if you ride a large frame as I do, so I avoid these. I trade some grease and grime from taking the rear wheel off and on, in exchange for more easily stowing my bike on the train without bothering other passengers or getting requests/lectures from the train staff.  

Ostrich is the leading Japanese rinko bag maker. I have used their bags for many years. Giant, Tioga, and others make the "leave the rear wheel on" type. But for all of these, there is a dilemma for a long distance cyclist.

I would like to have a rinko bag with me in case I need it mid-ride. If I DNF and need to take the train home, wouldn't it be nice to have the rinko bag with me? But I need my bottle cages for hydration, and I don't want to carry a rinko filling up significant space and adding weight to a rear or front bag. Once, I tried the SR600 Nihon Alps and was blocked at Gero by a massive rain storm that washed out roads (okay, I was ready to abandon anyway). I ended up riding to Nagoya, buying a rinko bag that was too small to really fit my bike, and going home with a protruding bike. I had left my rinko hidden near Kobuchizawa to pick up at the end of the ride ... oh well. 

Now ... a solution!  One of the Japanese randonneurs who did Cascade 1400 last year (and goes by PEKO-chan) is selling a better rinko bag. It is much lighter weight ... but still very strong ... material.  An "extra large" size is available. Instead of needing to carry in a bottle cage, it easily slips into a rear jersey pocket. And it feels feather light. At 3000-3500 yen, these rinko bags cost far less than the "leading" brand.  All in all, a better product.  

They are available for sale direct on PEKO-chan's website, here.  But don't expect her to be accepting orders during Golden Week. Rumor has it she will be off on a long ride.

Left - my Ostrich rinko bag, right - my "otesei" rinko bag

With this product there is no excuse not to carry a rinko bag on a long ride ... or even on a shorter one if I think I might want/need to hop a train home.

I used 2 of PEKO-chan's bags for my 160cm long (plus protrusions) recumbent frame

April 2025 Update:  I have been using PEKO-chan's rinko bags regularly especially as I now have a country house for weekend/summer use -- when I can manage to get out of the city -- and often go via bike/train/bike to get there or back.  After maybe 30-40 times using it, I finally poked enough holes in the extra large green one so that I started using one of her other models I had gotten as well -- it carries the bicycle upside down, seat downward. I find it less likely to bang up a derailleur when that most sensitive mechanical part is not on the ground. Also, I find it a bit faster to get the bike into and out of the bag with that design. (The purple one shown above I got for my wife ... who has yet to take full advantage of it). 

Anyway, I am still a big believer in these bags, even more so, after a couple more years experience with them. 
"Upside down" style bag, with a stiff wind against the wheeles, at Kofu Station.

20 April 2023

600km RAMAX ride in Osaka, and Nara, and Kyoto, and Mie (Ise, Kumano), and Wakayama ... in Rain and Wind

Wazuka, in southern Kyoto Prefecture. Famous uji-cha fields. 800 years of tea growing,
a designated cultural artifact.
My final ride needed to qualify for PBP was a 600km brevet. I had choices of an April 15 Audax Kinki event in Kansai, around the Kii Peninsula, or an April 22 Audax Saitama one in Kanto, up to Fukushima and back. The April 22 event was a lot closer to home, and looked a bit easier. But schedule issues around the weekend of the 22nd and 23rd pushed me to commit to the earlier ride in Kansai. And that approach left me with at least some possibility of a backup, just in case I DNF'ed.
The ride looked on the difficult side. Jerome had tried a similar course once 4-5 years ago, and did not finish. He started tired and suffered in heat and headwinds along the coast. Still the course was nothing like the 600k with 8000 meters of climbing that we did once, nor did it look as tough as the Seattle "summer gravel grinder" I did back in 2016, nor as difficult as the Tasmania 600k from 2019. In fact, I realized, I have a pretty good track record at 600k brevets.
Then again, so does Jerome, and the fact that he DNF'ed a similar course previously was a caution. Last year when we did our 600km brevet to qualify for Cascade 1400, Jerome started 2 hours after me and caught up eventually so that we could ride the final 1/4 of the event together. And he has been "waiting at the top" for me on climbs when we ride together the past few years. So I signed up for the 6AM start, and Jerome did for the 7AM. I thought he would probably catch me by the first evening, and we could start together on day 2.

The weather forecast looked bad. Rain on day 1, sometimes heavy, and nasty headwinds on day 2.  But at least it would be 10 degrees C warmer than the cold and rainy 400km ride I just did in March ... so I knew even if I got wet, I would not be as cold. I could dress a bit lighter. I decided to trust my thin, more breathable cycling rain jacket, fairly tight-fitting but still comfortable.  And I used my "chaps" style Rain Legs, instead of full rain pants. A pair of standard "Sealskinz" rainy weather cycling gloves, rather than REI Goretex mitten shell I had used over the Q36.5 Amfib gloves last month. And for the headwind on day 2, I decided to try a Nalini skinsuit (one piece top and bottom) that I got last year but have not yet worn for anything longer than a 2-hour ride. If it was reasonably comfortable and would save me a few watts of drag on a long upwind slog ... why not? 
I rode the Ramax, with Raceblade front fender and my rear saddle bag to protect my backside from rain splash. The Ramax is very comfortable and a perfect choice for this ride. I continue to enjoy the bike, and love my GS Astuto wheelset and the 700x32 Schwalbe Pro One tires that I have been running tubeless over the past many months. I topped up sealant before the ride ... and had no flats, again. Fast, comfortable, stable on the wet pavement, and unlike the Pelso, I can climb OK on this bike.
In any event, we got out of Tokyo in good time Friday mid-afternoon, made it to our lodging at a minshuku in Sayama City, about 7kms from the start in Mikkaichi-cho.  The theme of the minshuku was "art" and "aesthetics" -- 美学. The woman who welcomed us gave some explanation, and it was at least novel and a comfortable place to stay. It also was the ONLY place to stay within 15kms or more of the start at Mikkaichi-cho Station.  We had a decent meal of Japanese pub food and beer and were back at our lodging and ready to sleep around 9PM. Jerome remarked repeatedly how nice it was not to be rushed getting to an event, for once. And it was.
A work of art ...
I cannot imagine this would survive intact in many big city neighborhoods around the world.

Our lodgings

It started to sprinkle rain drops as we returned from dinner, and was a serious, pretty hard rain when I awoke. Jerome also was awake and said he would go with me to the start area for my 6AM start, even though he would need to wait for an extra hour. We left the minshuku just before 5, navigated the dark and wet streets, and were at Mikkaichi-cho Station before 530AM. After a walk over to 7-11 to get some modest breakfast, the briefing was already underway when we returned. Only a few riders were there. Actually, a total of 55 signed up for the event, but only 20 rode (including the two organizers who did a pre-ride last week). Most saw the weather forecast and decided not to join. Just like last month's Chiba 400km. Two riders, Dee and Henry, had come from Hong Kong and did not speak any Japanese. I jumped in a bit to interpret for them.  Another rider, Kuramoto-san, said he worked for Shimano and had at one point earlier in his career been on assignment in Irvine, CA, but now was at the company HQ in Osaka.

Jerome ... dressed for serious bad weather, or an ocean going fishing vessel?
Mikka-ichi-cho Station


Organizers and 5 of the 7~8 who started at 6AM.

Henry and Chi-Fung (aka Dee) from Hong Kong

Bamboo thicket across from the station.

Anyway, they let us go a few minutes early and I was the first rider through the bike check. The course went up a hill for the first few kms ... and I was surprised to look back and not see anyone gaining on me. Oh well, I would just ride. And ride I did. No one caught me until I was about to head out from PC1 at 39kms, as 4-5 riders (basically the entire 6AM start group) pulled in. I chatted with Kuramoto-san and mentioned that my feet had stayed dry for 15kms. No longer. At least I had warm socks. Wet, but not cold, at least not too cold. He seemed a bit non-plussed by my comment, as he was in solid rain gear, probably not wet at all, yet.
The rain continued, a bit less steady ... but as the course turned north, the wind started to push against my progress. The route was nothing exceptional here, a mix of country and town, plenty of old, pre-Meiji (Edo or older) structures. 
And, sooner than expected, I was in Nara! The course went right by the famous Nara deer park and the main tourism sights. There was a huge Starbucks across from the park area, next to the city hall. I got off in the park to snap a photo or two, then continued. Not a moment to lose. I did not get close to the deer.
RAMAX leans at Nara
Deer Park at Nara

I soon entered southern Kyoto Prefecture and the tea growing area of Wazuka. I was on a lovely road. Finally over a small summit, and down to another control point. This time, essentially the same group of riders showed up only a few minutes after me. We were into Mie Prefecture. This is where things started to get really hard. I thought this would be an easy stretch, but the next 30kms was a killer, with the wind having strengthened and swung around to our East.  I could not even keep 20kph speed. It was a slow, slogging, energy draining, and wet struggle to get, finally, to a long (2km) tunnel and onto a long descent to the city of Tsu.  This reminded me of last month's 400km struggle. Another epic event.
At least from here we were done with the wind, for now, and also done with any heavy rain. We took the old Ise road ... as I had done on an Ise 1000km ride many years ago ... until that road merged with a newer, clogged highway. I rode along a line of cars at many intersections, and finally got to the Ise checkpoint. By now lots of riders had arrived ahead of me, including a couple from the 7AM start. Jerome seemed to still be an hour or more behind. Dee and Henry had arrived before me. Henry was shivering in the cold. I explained the idea of seeking refuge (and drying out wet socks/gloves etc.) in a coin laundry. They asked if people booked hotels or not on a 600km. I gave them my hotel info ... still 135kms further up the course. They booked rooms, and we all pressed on. 
Entrance to Ise Shrine ... but not a moment to lose!
After a brief, gradual climb out of Ise to the WSW, we followed the south bank of the Miya river for quite awhile, eventually the local highways turning into a kind of rindo (forest road). It was dusk now, and I was glad there was still some natural light as I went through the twists and turns, avoiding the occasional piles of forest debris and puddles of water. 
I got a note from Jerome announcing his arrival at the Ise PC, letting me know that he was low on phone battery and so switching it off, and asking that I re-send the coordinates for the hotel I booked. It seemed he was still more than an hour behind me. He had struggled on the same stretch after Wazuka as had I.
Shortly after the rindo returned to a normal countryside highway, the route turned left/south onto National Route 42 ... the course for nearly all of our next ~200kms around Kii Peninsula.
More tea, WSW of Ise
RAMAX leans at a deserted bus stop.

It was night now, the rain had stopped, and the road was relatively quiet and getting more quiet. At one point, we touched the seashore and I could hear the calming sound of the waves. If I had not been so tuckered out from the earlier sections, I would have really enjoyed this ... but I wanted to press on the the next PC, in Owase. I finally made it to the the town Owase and looked for a Family Mart. I pulled off at one on the left side after I entered the main part of town. There were no riders, and I got out my brevet card, which gave a different name and said the PC was out by an interchange. The second and third Family Marts also were not the PC ... no riders and no "interchange" in the name. I headed out of town and after about a kilometer, as the long climb up to 400m elevation had started, I finally reached the correct Family Mart. There were some other riders. I thought it a bit strange that Owase supports 4 Family Marts, but none, that I could see, of the other major convenience stores. Maybe they felt sorry for the delivery drivers who came through town, or decided cooperation would be easier than competition?
Me (blue rain jacket and headband) in background next to Henry and Chi-Fung
The climb that followed was difficult for me, already exhausted after nearly 300kms. I've had that experience before -- I do a miserable climb at the tail end of a long day, and don't realize that it is actually not such a big climb until I somehow get a chance to ride it with fresh legs.  (This was the way I felt about Fujimidai on the Koshu Kaido on the border between Yamanashi and Nagano -- it was really tough when riding from Tokyo ... but easy when you start your ride from Kofu or Kobuchizawa.) 
The two Hong Kong riders passed me and zipped up the hill, both much younger and lighter than I. Another rider passed. Others had passed me after Ise, so I felt I was now near the back of the pack. But I just took the climb in low gear, eventually reached the top, and descended down to the seacoast again.
The Hotel Nami was just off the road within a few hundred meters of the bottom of the climb. It was 11:40PM. The box of fresh (dry!) clothes I had sent was there. I felt sorry for the staff when I left the box full of wet stinking clothes upon my departure before 4AM, with "chakubarai" (COD) form completed for return to my house in Tokyo. I saw a note from Jerome that he had arrived at the Owase PC at 11PM, 1 hr 20 min after me ... about the same time gap as at Ise and earlier.
Anyway, the Hotel was having exterior wall maintenance done and was covered with a scaffolding -- perfect for randonneurs who arrive after dark and leave before first light, just needing a shower and a place to sleep. And they had 24 hour reception policy--did not lock the front door and turn out the lights at midnight, as do many places in the countryside.
I showered, lay out everything for the next day, and was asleep by 12:15AM.  I set my alarm for 3:30AM, but woke 10 minutes earlier and, when I felt there was no way I would get another brief nap, got up. I saw that Jerome had sent a note that he would be "arriving soon" at 12:48AM. I messaged him that I was up and would head out ... and he responded that he also was awake and getting ready. I guess he could not sleep well. I was downstairs a few minutes later, waited 10 minutes, and he did not appear. ... so I told him I would head to find a convenience store and get breakfast. I stopped at a Family Mart 3 kms away, got some food and consumed it. A 12 minute stop and still no Jerome. I headed out, telling him I was taking a banana for him.
First light near Shingu

The famous "Kumano Kodo" ... looks much tougher than Route 42

Sunday Sunrise!

I made acceptable time heading for Kushimoto at the southern tip of the peninsula. We were protected from the wind by mountains to our west in many places. A couple places where it was more exposed, and we headed west ... in Shingu to get to a bridge crossing a river ... the wind slowed me to a crawl. Some of the sea coast was very pretty, as the sun rose. The mountains also looked densely forested and a bit mysterious.
The only word from Jerome was a note 80 minutes after I left the breakfast convenience store that he needed to eat and was stopping to do so. I got to Kushimoto at 7:21, 13 minutes ahead of the notional cut-off time of 7:34AM. There were 4-5 other riders at Kushimoto, including Henry and Chi-Fung. One rider was basking in the sun at the side of the Lawson PC when I arrived. He said he also had started at 6AM Saturday, but had not slept at all. He looked very fatigued.
I had had 3 hrs and 40 minutes of "savings" when I got to the 4th Family Mart in Owase the previous night, and used up all of that and more at Hotel Nami to get decent sleep. I think I cannot do a decent 600km brevet without a sleep stop. So I was happy to be back on track at least. The Kushimoto time was only for our reference, not an enforced time limit. By the time I left Kushimoto, it was around 7:45AM, so more catching up to do by the first real time limit in Tanabe, 69 kms further on. 
As soon as I turned the corner of the peninsula, the wind hit. It was not gale force, but it was a steady headwind, and it slowed my pace from maybe 27kph to 22kph. A few places where the route bent toward the east to go around an inlet ... I found myself going 37kph for the same effort. I pushed on, and soon passed the rider who had been basking in the sun (he DNFed, it seems).  I traded places back and forth several times with a number of riders ... I guess mostly 7AM starters. I kept going with no long stops, only a few brief times pulled off the road for a toilet stop or an energy bar or onigiri that I had brought along.  The coastline was beautiful, but there was not a moment to lose. The elevation gain was a lot less than RidewithGPS has indicated, with lots of tunnels through the top of hills in at least some segments. I made it the 69kms to the Tanabe PC 25 minutes before the cutoff time. I had a message from Jerome that he was hopping a train and had DNF'ed. It was not to be helped. He had not ridden at all while on a long business trip, and it seemed he did not sleep that much Friday night, and barely at all on Saturday night at Hotel Nami. And he needed to get to Kyoto on Sunday early evening, which was not going to happen on his (or my) current trajectory. Henry and Chi-Fung were at Tanabe again. Henry asked me if I thought we would finish on time. Of course we will! Indeed, I can think of only one time I DNF'ed a brevet of 600km or less, out of approximately 70 attempts. We were done with most of the bad wind, and had only a few significant hills ahead.

There was more traffic on Route 42 as we rejoined it after leaving Tanabe, and it was now early afternoon Sunday. It was a lovely day, but we were still heading more west than north, with the wind still a significant factor. I felt confident that I would finish if I just managed my time okay and did not suffer any disastrous mechanical trouble or have problems with my body. The biggest threat of the latter was my feet, as I started to experience some significant, painful "hot foot".  I had moved my cleats back a bit at Tanabe, but that did not seem to help. I tried to spin and not grind, pull rather than push, on the pedals, ride one leg drills. It was painful, but I could continue. After Gobo we finally headed away from the coastline and nearly due North, the wind fading and no longer in front!
Before the 522km PC, there were two climbs of around 3kms each. The first one was less than 100m elevation and not so steep. The second one felt like a vertical wall. I could see a tunnel entrance up on the hill. I rode to within a couple hundred meters, then stopped for a sip of water in the afternoon heat, snapped a photo, and rested my feet just a bit. I decided to walk to the tunnel entrance. Every tunnel up to now had been the top of the climb, had been level/flat inside, and had led to a descent. But this was different. The climb continued in the tunnel! I remounted and crept up the inside of the ~600m long tunnel. At least it was cool inside. 
Not the top.
I dismounted again at the top of the tunnel, admiring the view on the other side of the hill. But my GPS told me not to go straight, down the hill, but turn right and head up another slope that looked steeper yet. The road finally leveled out and continued around the mountain, giving a view to the North that was actually a pretty good reward for the effort!


I got to the 522km PC in Arita with 25 minutes to spare. Chi-Fung was there but nobody else. I got some spaghetti, coffee, water for my bottles, and sat down to eat and to put my receipt (proof of passage) into my brevet card. The receipt was for a Family Mart ... but the brevet card said the PC was a Lawson! I immediately hailed Chi-Fung -- this is not the PC! At first he did not believe me, looking at his prep materials, but eventually he recalled that they had changed the PC after he did all his preparation, and had told us at the pre-ride briefing. 522 kms is a long way to remember something like that! I loaded my water bottles, handed the coffee back to the clerk for disposal, and balanced my heated but still sealed spaghetti container in one hand as I hopped on the bike. We rode the 1~2 kms and found the Lawson, still 10 minutes to spare for getting our receipts. Whew. My "hot foot" was still an issue, so I bought a second pair of thin white Lawson socks to go inside my thick wool socks. The slight additional "compression" worked and my feet partially recovered and felt a lot better.
We were no longer heading into the wind (which seemed to have weakened a lot in any event). But I noticed that the last 20 kms of the event would have our biggest climb of the day ... up to nearly 400m. So I needed a decent headstart. I wanted to leave the 382km PC at least 20-30 minutes ahead of the cut off.
7 or 8 kilometers out of the PC, our route turned left, then right, headed up a ridge on a small road that crossed over to the northern side where it had a nice view across a bay to Wakayama City. At one point I passed in front of a bench on which sat four elderly ladies. They smiled and cheered me on ... they must have seen most of the other riders pass over the previous hour and were enjoying the spectacle.  Eventually the route went down the north side of the ridge and headed along a river. There were plenty of short ups and downs over the next 40-50kms, the ups pretty hellish at this point, but the downhills and flat sections fast.  A few drops of rain were falling and it was getting dark. 
I made it to the final PC with nearly 30 minutes of leeway, and left after a 6-7 minute pitstop ... that included adding yet another pair of thin socks. I thought that if I just kept moving, I would be able to do the final 20kms, including the climb up to around 400m elevation, within the allotted time. The first part of the climb was painful, on a busy road. I chose the wide sidewalk rather than having cars whiz by me. The upper part of the climb was far better, on a quiet road, eventually a forest road, and not seeming as steep.  I could see one rider ahead and I gained on him. When I almost caught him, I pulled over and ate a snack, sipped water, and rested for a couple minutes. I was within 100m elevation of the pass and confident I was on schedule. I remounted and, a few minutes later, passed the rider struggling slowly. Soon he was out of my sight behind, his light around a bend in the road, then two bends back. I got to the top and let out a whoop, and started the descent.
As I descended, the road surface was wet and the descent winding. I could not go as fast as I had expected. Then my light started to slip in its bracket. I readjusted it several times after it slipped down, and ended up just holding it between fingers in my right hand.  After what seemed like a long time, the road I was on finally ended at a larger highway that was not pitch black. I switched on my backup light and stopped worrying about clasping my main dynamo hub light. Just a few more kilometers, and I was back in KawachiNagano City pulling into yet one more Lawson, a few blocks from the train station where we had started. Henry had finished already, Chi-Fung pulled in at the same time as me. My time was 39 hours at 52 minutes, out of an allowed 40 hours. 
A 39 hour and 52 minute time for a 600km brevet does not really inspire confidence about my ability to complete Paris-Brest-Paris. But then again, this brevet had 55 registrants but only 20 who started in the pouring rain, and 16 who completed. Those who rode were tougher than average randonneurs, I have no doubt. Yet out of the 16 who completed 13 rode with times of 38 to 40 hours. Only 3 were faster than 38 hours, and the fastest time was 33:07, second fastest 34:51. A typical good group of Japanese randonneurs, on a typical course, would have the fastest time well under 30 hours, and plenty of finishers in the 34-38 hour range. So this was a brevet under difficult conditions. At least my track record on completing 600km brevets is very good even if I use most of the allotted time. I like to get at least 3 hours of sleep, I like to get a shower and clean up and to take a few photos, to chat a bit with other participants. And usually I prefer not to punish my body any more than is necessary to finish. After all, it is not a race. There is no prize for being first. Some of my most memorable brevets and longer rides have been the ones where I took nearly the entire time limit. This one falls into that category. Memorable. Even, dare I say, ... epic?
I hope I get to ride the Kii Peninsula again ... ideally downwind!

18 April 2023

MOB's Book is Out -- The Founding Story of Positivo Espresso (and More)!!


Michael O.B. Kraehe, the esteemed founder (or at least principal co-founder) of this blog long ago and not so far away, who was also our leading contributor until he returned to his homeland of Germany more than a decade ago, has written a book about his experience cycling in Japan. The book title translates as roughly "The Day before Yesterday in Japan: No training, no talent, and several extra kilos visible, my incredible path to become the Japanese cycling champion." 

The prestigious publisher, Covadonga Verlag, is known for German language editions of cycling-related best sellers as Jonathan Vaughters' "One-way Ticket", Tim Moore's "Vuelta Skelter" and "Gironimo", Geraint Thomas' "Radsportberge Und Wie Ich Sie Sah", Charly Wegelius' classic "Domestik", David Millar's "Auf der Strasse", the German language version of Jan Heine's "The All-Road Bike Revolution" and all of famed American coach Joe Friel's training books (essential reading for serious cyclists and triathletes)! They even have a book about 6-time RAAM winner Christoph Strasser and his world record ride of over 1000 kms in 24 hours (though I am not sure how interesting it could be to talk about someone riding around and around the same track, peeing into a bottle). Covadonga is so essential to German road cycling that they published the German language edition of "The Rules" (Die Regeln) by the Velominati. So now Covadonga will be known for books about G. Thomas, C. Strasser, and MOB Kraehe.

I don't read German, but I think it is a fair wager that MOB's tales of our Positivo Espresso team-time-trial effort at Lake Saiko (back when we were racers), and his year of attending and not getting lapped by the field in JCRC races in order to win the D class JCRC championship, are at least funnier, and offer more insights about a nation's culture (Japan), than any of these other Covadonga classics.

Congratulations to MOB! 

A few photos from the book (most of which, truth be known, have appeared previously on this blog), are below.







14 April 2023

Upcoming Big Rides

Jerome and I plan to ride our 600km PBP qualifier this coming weekend. We have signed up for an Audax Kinki event -- clockwise from an area South of Osaka, through Nara, Ise, then down the Kumano coastline and around the Kii Peninsula, and back up through Wakayama Prefecture


It looks like a great course. Plenty of challenge, but no more than 1000m of elevation gain for each 100km of riding, so a typical day in the countryside for Japan.

Unfortunately, the weather forecast for Saturday is heavy rain, with only a modest let-up after noon, then more rain until evening.  In the evening at some point the rain should, it must, stop. At least it will be 10 degrees C (18 F) warmer than during the rain last month on the Chiba 400km to Shirakawa and back.

The weather forecast for Sunday, when we will be heading SW then NW along the coastline, often fully exposed to the wind ... is for stiff headwinds from the west. 

So this may be a difficult event to complete. We shall see.

--------------------

Separately, I am planning for my big Golden Week adventure. I have registered with the World Ultracycling Association to attempt a Honshu end-to-end ride, from Shimonoseki to Cape Oma in Aomori. This should be around 1650kms, and should take me 5 days or so. And I will be doing it on the Pelso, via the flattest route possible.

I have been tweaking the bike -- swapped in a new pair of Schwalbe One Pro TLR 700x30 tubeless tires a bit lighter and lower rolling resistance than the Schwalbe One version I have been using on the bike for the past 18 months. I've switched dynamo lights to a better/newer model and changed the mounting position so it does not protrude so much.

I wanted to get rid of the large mirror protruding from my right handlebar and get something a bit less of a sail. I ordered a set of two smaller cheap ones on Amazon ... but they are a bit clouded and not so nice. So I finally found one that is a good size, a clear mirror, and attaches close to my handlebars and so should have a wee bit less wind drag. Every little bit counts.

Left -- too big and protrudes into "clean air".
Right -- too small and cloudy.
Middle -- just right for the Pelso!



09 April 2023

EF Education … SVB>?!

 EF Education is one of my favorite world tour teams. The Alt Tour [de France] was more enjoyable to follow than the real tour in a recent year. And they have a very multicultural group including some promising riders … most recently featuring American Neilson Powless. They picked up Richard Carapaz, who, with Roberto Uran and Estaban Chavez, showed last week … they were not in top form nor ready to keep up with J Vingegaard at the Basque Country stage race. But the women’s team EF-Timco-SVB, Canadian Alison Jackson, just won the women’s version of Paris Roubaix with an awesome effort. 

I think the women’s team may be looking for a new secondary sponsor.




21 March 2023

400km with Chiba Audax on the Worst Day of the Year* ... on the Pelso

In order to qualify for the quadrennial Paris-Brest-Paris randonee, to be held this August, I must complete a full series of 200, 300, 400, and 600km brevets by early June. Having done the 300 and 200km events in December and January, respectively, and another 200 in February while visiting the USA, I want to clear the remaining qualifiers relatively quickly, so I have plenty of time in case I need to redo one of them.
After all, things can go wrong: things like a mechanical issue or minor stomach upset that result in a DNF. Or bigger things, like an earthquake, tsunami, and nuclear disaster that stop all train services and result in cancellation of Audax rides for at least a few weeks. Or even a pandemic lockdown that stops all Audax rides for awhile.
Over the years things HAVE gone wrong. At this point in my randonneuring career, I've seen it all, or at least most of it. So I know I should plan ahead and try to consider contingencies.
It was in that spirit that I signed up for the Chiba Audax March 18 400km "GO Shirakawa" brevet. The course started from Abiko -- same location as last year's Chiba 400km around Boso Peninsula -- but it headed in the opposite direction, north through Ibaraki and Tochigi as far as Shirakawa in southern Fukushima Prefecture, then back along an almost parallel North-South route somewhat further east, eventually, reaching the Pacific coastline at Oarai near Mito, then eventually looping back to Abiko.
The course looked relatively easy. It had no relentless climbing, and no high mountains, only one sub-500 meter elevation pass at the Tochigi/Fukushima border, and the usual ups and downs elsewhere. The final 60kms was pancake flat.
But the course looked at least less boring than a typical Kanto winter ride. Heading north from Abiko, the route was mostly in the countryside. There would be traffic lights, but they would not be endless, and there would be no 20-25km straight agricultural road in the midst of flat fields. And the entire return would be on Saturday night into Sunday morning, with light or even no traffic on some highways that I would not enjoy riding during the day. The Chiba Audax website listed the "difficulty" as 2 stars out of 5. Easy.
RidewithGPS showed 3800 meters of elevation gain on the 400km course. But a close examination of the route led me to think the actual climbing would be well under 3000 meters, probably closer to 2000. (In fact, my GPS measured just under 2000 meters when all was said and done). The climb between Nasu and Shirakawa, the one almost to 500m elevation, was very gradual, only the last few kilometers exceeding 5%. Most other climbs seemed to be less then one kilometer long, with elevation gain less than 75 meters. 
As the ride date approached, I started to think ... maybe, just maybe, I could do this event on the Pelso recumbent? I cannot climb well on the Pelso, but I can go fast on a flat course -- faster than on my other "diamond frame" bikes. And I have gone 400km on it before, once. Even if I ended up walking up the last few kilometers of that one bigger climb, and a few smaller climbs later in the course, maybe the Pelso would be as fast as another bike? At least it should be fast enough to complete within the 27 hour time limit. 
So I decided to ride the Pelso.
As the ride date got even closer, however, the weather forecast started to look ominous. By 2-3 days before the ride, the forecast was showing heavy rain throughout the relevant area of Japan on March 18. Andrei O., who was also riding and is also planning to do PBP, mentioned the forecast. 
Worse yet, it would be very cold, nearly freezing, and the winds on Saturday would be steady out of the north.  In Shirakawa, we might be riding in sleet. To sum it up, we would be riding from Abiko to Shirakawa (165kms) directly into the wind, in heavy rain, and near freezing, winter-like temperatures. I remembered a brevet in mid-March eight years ago, when Jerome and I rode with Japanese randonneurs in the wee hours through northern Ibaraki, in weather that was much colder than anticipated. I remembered a slog down the Beef Line, barely warm enough to keep going, knowing that to stop would be even worse. I warned Andrei that it might be colder than expected.
Given the weather forecast, I waffled on whether to go ahead with the Pelso. In the rain, the reclined body position offers full exposure to the elements. Rain hits my face and goes straight into my eyes -- blinding me temporarily if I do not have appropriate eyewear. Sleet would be even worse. And in the rain, my feet tend to slip off of the flat pedals that I prefer for riding the Pelso. 
In the end, I decided to stick with the Pelso. Forewarned is forearmed. I would take a real rain jacket, rain pants, new REI Goretex rain covers for my Amfib Q36.5 gloves, and other appropriate gear. I swapped out the flat pedals for SPD pedals. I would wear SPD/mountain biking shoes. I also would bring spare warm socks, gloves, winter head cover, inner layer, socks, etc., just in case needed during the trip.
Only 23 out of 90 registrants started the ride. Chiba Audax allowed people to switch entries to a 200km brevet on Sunday if they did not want to challenge the difficult conditions. A dozen did so. 

Still feeling jet-lagged and somewhat sleep-deprived from a return to Japan on Monday ...  I removed the wheels from the Pelso and fit the beast of a bicycle into my car on Friday evening. On Saturday I woke at 430AM, still not feeling well-rested, and was driving toward Abiko in the rain shortly after 5AM. I arrived, set up the bike in the rain, and proceeded to the Start area. There were about 25 people there, including the organizers. The vast majority of the 90 registrants were marked "DNS" due to the weather. What was left was a relatively hard core group. The organizer told us that this was an easy course ... except for the weather. He also announced that they would not enforce the time limit at the Oarai Kaigan control point (288kms), to offer more flexibility to complete the ride. These messages, an "easy" course, but a need for more time to clear the control over 70% of the way through the ride, seemed inconsistent to me.
And then we were off. I made it up the first short hill out of the start, my heart racing, and continued making good time over the first hour. One Japanese rider, Kimura-san, passed me with a reflective vest labeled "組長" or "boss".  I kept catching up to him at traffic lights over the next 5 kms until he finally cleared one that I missed in Tsukuba. He told me that he was only fast at the beginning. I took this as typical Japanese humility ... but in fact, now see that he finished at the back of the group. 
I needed a bathroom break so pulled off at a Family Mart where our course turned east in Tsukuba at 31.5km. I also got some food, and could see lots of riders passing me by. A few blocks after I started up again, I turned to go up a curb cut and onto a wide sidewalk ... failing to realize that the curb cut was covered in slick metal. Wham, I went down on my left side as the wheels came out from under me. Fortunately, with the Pelso recumbent, this fall was not much worse than, say, rolling off a sofa onto a floor. No injuries to me nor bike (other than a need to re-set my chain and readjust my handlebars), and so I continued.
Temporary shelter in Tsukuba
By late morning, the rain was, if anything, stronger, and the temperature, if anything, colder. And the headwind had picked up ... not as vicious as some Spring winds in northern Kanto, but steady. We crossed from Sakuragawa in Ibaraki into Mashiko in Tochigi. Mashiko is known for its style of pottery, but there were few people out and about today anywhere. This entire part of Japan was familiar to me from my days locating sites for and developing solar projects. Our team ended up with two Tochigi projects further north and west, but also spent endless hours roaming this part of the prefecture with local partners looking at sites that, for one reason or another, did not pan out. 
NW Ibaraki
By 145PM, I was at 133kms, slowing down, and really cold and wet. The rain was strong (stronger than the forecast, at least tenki.jp's forecast), the temperature was maybe 3-4 degrees celsius (38F?), and the headwind continued. I pulled into a convenience store for some lunch. There was no "eat in" space. Across the road was Otawara City's "Kurashi-no-kan" that seemed as if it might at offer some covered space ... but looked very dark and cold. I decided not to head over. Instead, I went outside the store and adjusted my recumbent, raising the seat back maybe 3-4 cms, to try and get more power on the upcoming climbs and to be a bit more stable starting and stopping. I came back inside and ordered coffee. The staff ignored my presence sipping coffee inside the store by the front window ... against the rules. In the end, it was nearly a 30 minute stop but I did not feel much better as I restarted. Still cold and wet and tired. 
As I continued on, I found that my hands were not moving well due to the cold. I could barely move my shifter using my right thumb, even applying all the weight of my arms from an odd angle. I rode for at most 30 minutes/10km before another stop, this one at a michi no eki in Iono. They were selling some cooked foods ... at a cafe window with seating only outdoors (though at least it was under a roof cover). Eating outside would not help in my current condition. The main indoor area was a vegetable market, selling local produce. I went in and asked if there was someplace warm I could just sit and warm a bit. The woman at the cash register led me to a back area where there was a table and bench, and told me to make myself at home.  It was not toasty, but at least it was a lot warmer than outside. After 15 minutes I got up to leave ... but one foot outside and I realized I needed a bit longer. I had a spare pair of winter gloves with me (forewarned!), that I had wanted to save until after the rain stopped. But I realized I would never make it up the next hill without changing into them.  The Goretex mitten covers ... would not fit, as these gloves were bulkier than my Q36.5 Amfibs.  Anyway, the stop took nearly 30 minutes in total, but at least I headed out with warmer hands and wearing dry, warm gloves. 
Miraculously, the rain started to lighten up a bit after a few minutes of riding. At this rate ... less than 1mm precipitation per hour ... I might make it with my second pair of gloves dry. The road turned up, elevation gradually climbing from 220m elev toward the pass at 460m. I was able to climb okay and make decent time now. This was the climb I had thought I might need to walk, perhaps as much as 2-3kms. In fact, I was doing okay, but I slowed to the point where, for the last 500m or so, I dismounted and walked to save energy. It was already after 4PM, but at least I was at the high point for the entire ride, had done 155kms, and would get some rest on the next section. Andrei O's photo of this stretch from a bit earlier ... as he was now far ahead, is below.

The minute I reached the descent on the northern side of the slope, into Fukushima Prefecture, the rain turned to sleet. The sleet stung as it hit my face. But it was still falling lightly, and the road was not icy. I could descend at decent speed toward the next control point (a photo at Nanko Park in Shirakawa 166km) then to the Tora Shokudo (171km) where the organizers had suggested we stop for food. 
At Nanko Park in Shirakawa
The restaurant's interior was warm, there was room for me to place my wet outer wear next to my seat in a box on the floor, and the ramen tasted better than any I have ever had. I used the toilet and changed from my soaking wet inner layer into my warm, long-sleeved turtleneck Q36.5 base layer. In the end, a 50 minute stop.  If I total the 16 min stop at 31kms, 20 mins at the first PC at 88kms, the 2x30min stops in Otawara and Iono, 7 mins at Nanko Park, the 50min stop at Tora Shokudo, and 10 mins a few minutes later to get new batteries for my rear light,  ... I must have been off the bicycle at least 163 mins during the first 175 kms. 
Best ramen I've ever tasted?!


But the rain had almost stopped, and from here (175kms in, at just after 6:00PM) the route would head east, then south, with the wind at our backs. Indeed, I actually made very good time from here most of the way to Hitachinaka, 100kms further on.  The temperature indicators by the roadside first showed 1 degree Celsius, then 2 degrees, then finally 3.  I could see stars in places now -- my gaze upward as I reclined on the recumbent. By 11PM, I had gone 265kms total. This entire stretch from Shirakawa had started at around 300m elevation, and ended close to sea level. There were a few intermediate climbs, but all of them were short. A few I walked up, if I felt at all unsteady, taking a couple minutes rest from the bike. But most I could ride up. I took one more short stop, then pressed on to the Oarai Kaigan 7-11 control point.
I got a rice w/ melted cheese and sauce "doria" at the convenience store, heated up. Here, the staff person shooed me outside when I tried to eat it just inside the front door. "no eating permitted inside!"  Well, I explained, it was so hot that I got cold waiting for it to cool down to an edible temperature. She was not buying my story, even though it was after midnight and very cold still outside. Ugh. A Chiba Audax staffer had been at the Tora Shokudo, and was here as well at Oarai. I asked if there was any place to rest up ahead ... a coin laundry, internet cafe, onsen, or similar? ... he said there was not much until Kashima, the 337km checkpoint.  Another 25-30 mins off the bike, then I pressed on. 
Finally, around km 326, on the eastern side of Lake Kitaura, there was a 7-11 that had a mini-coin-laundry in its parking lot, a small shed with 4 dryers, enclosed with a glass front door/window. You can see it here with google street view.  
My 3AM rest shed
The space was not heated, but it was protected from the wind. I put all my extra/wet gear in the dryer and set it for 24 minutes, laying down on the floor mat in front. I could feel warmth from the dryer on my hands, and slept immediately, waking to the buzz of the dryer alarm. There was another audax cyclist lying down motionless across in the parking lot in the lee of the 7-11 building. ... it looked cold out there. I added another 100 yen to run the machine another 12 minutes, and slept again until the next buzzer. The rider had moved on by the time I awoke. 
After heading a few hundred meters further and noticing my front light was not working, I stopped to fix the wire  ... and two riders passed me and zoomed up a hill, as our route left the Kitaura lakeside. Including both my rest and the repair work, by the time I was back on my way ... it had been another 50+ minute stop, but a much needed and very effective one. I walked up the hill then remounted. Finally, I made it to Kashima Jingu. The shrine looked huge, and quiet. 
At Kashima Jingu ... bicycle parking
It was now just past 4:30AM, and there were two other riders at the shrine, one of whom had asked questions about the Pelso and introduced himself to me earlier as Warabe (based on the start list, last name Shiraki-san), and was the guy who had been resting earlier by the 7-11, I believe. After the obligatory photo as proof of passage and a short rest, it was on toward the next PC ... and now riding into the wind for the last 65 kms. I reached that PC and chatted a bit with Warabe-san. There were two younger riders as well who had zoomed past as I fixed my light connection, one said he was 31 yrs old, the other 38. They looked like college kids. I headed out ahead of them but stopped when the course started to parallel the road along the Tonegawa. I wondered, ... should we ride up on the levy on the bike path (last year's Chiba 400 had taken that in the opposite direction) or stay down on the road? The two youngish riders passed me and stayed on the road. I followed, keeping to the road, eventually passed them, and did not stop again until I got about 30kms away from the PC, only 20km left to the Goal. I could see Audax riders heading down the road in the opposite direction. Apparently they were from a Nihombashi event, another 400k that started 5-6 hours later than we had (and so had had 5-6 hours less rain!). 
I pulled off to the side of the road and removed some clothing ... my rain jacket, winter cap, and helmet cover. And I switched back to the somewhat lighter weight gloves. It was at least 6-7 degrees C now and warming gradually, the sun above the horizon. Indeed, Sunday looked like a lovely day for a bike ride, even if Saturday had not been!  I could go noticeably faster without so much gear on. Less wind resistance, I guess? In any event, the finish was so close now, I could taste it. I pushed through, puzzled over which of three 7-11 stores within a kilometer of each other was the official end point, finally needed to consult my cue sheet, google maps, and confirm some kanji readings then loop back to the correct one and pick up my receipt. The two 30-something riders came in just as I entered the store.  I checked in at the finish with the organizers, headed back to my car just as Warabe-san came rolling in, packed up my bicycle, ... and napped for an hour before driving home. 
I finished in 25 hours and 33 minutes. There were 23 finishers in all, 6 after me and 16 ahead. Andrei was the first in, in 21 hours and 11 minutes. I think if I had been well-rested, in decent weather, and on a normal bike, this could have been a 21-22 hour event. Amazing that Andrei could do it that quickly despite the conditions (he had similar difficulties in the cold and wet ... and a 90 minute stop to rest and warm up). But then again, if we had had decent weather ... it would not have been an adventure. 

Postscript: I must say that the recovery from this ride, now 3 days ago, has been much tougher than other recent long rides. At the end of the ride, my butt was very sore where it had been resting on the edge of the recumbent's carbon seat. Usually I ride the Pelso laying on top of the seat, but by changing the seat to a steeper angle, I was effectively sitting on the bottom edge and applying more weight on a narrow edge there. I did not notice it until ... after 8 or 10 hours riding in that position.  With the seat elevated and SPD cleats, I could not move around on the seat but was locked in one position. The last couple times I got on the bike ... I really did not want to sit down on it again.  Also perhaps from the single position, my knees hurt just a bit during the ride, but not significantly. Spinning in a low gear helped defray the issues of a single position. But the leg stiffness following the ride was much worse than usual.  Overall, I was exhausted the next two days.  I think I started the ride tired -- both from bad jet-lag and not enough sleep on Wednesday evening, and an early Saturday start with not an early enough sleep on Friday night. Also, climbing on the recumbent I find I am quickly going "into the red zone" -- pushing the pedals at an unsustainable power output. Those repeated "red zone" efforts, trying to get a heavy bike and an overweight rider up a slope, took a toll on my cardio vascular system. I'm being careful to just rest and recover so that now, on Wednesday, I feel ready to re-engage fully. Also, I should add that this Spring the pollen levels in this part of Japan have been off the charts. The rain on Saturday of course kept them down ... but once the rain stopped, and definitely by early Sunday, they must have come back with a vengeance, and pollen levels have stayed high since. I'm on medication, but I think the impact of the pollen has probably complicated the normal recovery. 

I think next time I try to ride the Pelso 400kms or more, I will stick with my flat pedals, and will try to make sure that I am wearing shoes that will not slip in the rain, rather than going with cleats.  And in warmer weather I hope I will be able to avoid the baggy un-aero clothing, and also will be a few kgs lighter!

*Portland Oregon has an annual "worst day of the year" bicycle ride on the last Sunday of winter. This ride, on the last Saturday into the last Sunday, and in these conditions, was close enough.

Addendum:  I next rode the Pelso on April 2, for around 95kms in pleasant weather -- to get coffee with the Tokyo Cranks, view sakura along the Tamagawa, and then a few errands on the way home. It felt faster. And more comfortable. I had ridden the day before so did not push my pace, but still made decent time. I felt far better than I had on the Chiba 400kms.  With flat pedals and some running shoes, and the seat a bit lower down - not "slammed" but not elevated as I had done for the climbing, I could make decent time with less effort and more comfort.  Next, I'm going to get some new tires and do some modest maintenance, and I should have it ready for an ultra distance attempt during Golden Week.